I can understand your limiting factor regarding the price. So on that note another cheaper option which im pretty sure would be ideal for your goals, could be to swap out the dampers for Bilstein B8 combined with H&R springs. A couple of guys i know ran that on both M140i F20 and F21 M135i. Misha Charoudin, even tested the M140 on Nordschleife, and called it one of the best M140 he has driven. I dont care much of this youtuber, but its safe to say, the M140 worked pretty good with that suspension setup.

Best solution, find a used set of KW's clubsports. Even if leaking doesn't matter. just cheaper to purchase. (1.5-1.9k eur) Then send it off to Pfeifer and have it fully rebuild. Maybe around 2k euros. You will not find a better suspension for that kind of money (3.5-4K including everything) You get a suspension that sits between a club sport and a competition, but is more durable than the comp for everyday life. I'm receiving my suspension this week. If you can find front dampers only - then I can supply you with my rear dampers, since I didn't convert my rear dampers, due to specific wishes for my build. The rears i have does not leak..

König Hypergram are even lighter.. erikontrck on insta runs them with slicks kissing curbs like it was his wife.. He and I haven't been able to find a lighter wheel in those price ranges.. weighs nearly 2kgs per wheel less than a PT One (10.5" compared) so almost 8 kgs in rotational mass less than PT .

Price wasnt listed before..

Yeah it's really a massive difference! I was consistently doing 8:05 times this year. But on my last trip to the ring, i did 7.51, its really different to how i normally drove the car and mentally you need to be much more awake.. things around you happens so much faster.

I enjoyed that story

3 years ago i didnt have ANY track experience either. I came to the Nürburgring with a 500ps RWD BMW just to do 1 or 2 laps.. I survived.. and catched the bug of track driving ever since.. The same BMW is still in use.. And the rest of that car is history :-) So with that in regard.. If Carsten finds a solid platform from the get go, he is much better set up for succes. It doesnt matter if its a RWD, FWD or AWD. but what matters is, it has to be fun and 2 it has to be easy to scource performance parts for it.. You will go to a point where you want to upgrade.. Unless you buy a Porsche.. But then againg.. Manthery kits arent available to just sit on the shelves.. So @CarstenDo some research, try a few cars and find what you like. Then do some modding research.. But MQB platform from VAG and the BMW platforms are probably the easiest to get quite decent on track for a smaller budget.

Here is my setup. Trailer is an Agado's ALFA B2. Works pretty well with a low car. Bonus is that its also a pretty cheap trailer at approx. 4k eur. Van is my work van, where I have made a setup with bed, table and such that can be removed when we arent traveling. Its possible to drive up into the mountains find a good location and load of the Bimmer and do some shenanigans.. Harzen is a beautiful place to drive around and also very fun roads there too with good bends.

You can literally not surprice anyone with a crash story and there is an Englishman involved. Its just as safe as the Amen in the church

981 GT4 is about 80k euros. Turn key and do as many laps as you can physically do, no overheating issues or similar. BMW M2 is about 50k euros. + Needs absolutely minimum 20k euros in mods + work hours to be nearly as fast as the GT4. (Diff, Seats, harnesses, wheels, suspension + bushings, brake cooling, Aero) More expensive on fuel than the gt4 because of turbo engine. So in the end the M2 will cost you around the same as the GT4 before its just as fast/good. So in that regard, I would choose the GT4.. Unless you are just horny for a BMW.. Like me and everyone else who thinks an old BMW with a price tag of 100k is interesting.

It for sure would be possible to due so. But you also have to consider in an event of a crash, that the cables arent cut or broken, which in the worst case scenario, could lead to wires making sparks and start a fire. So in that case, its not ideal either that the wires are routed on the outside of the cage. Human error at work, that i will correct as im working along.

Its details like these that really makes the difference on the interior.

Thanks! So for the CAN cable, i asked a friend about the color of the cable and where it would run from front to back, when that was found - it was straight forward to reduce the length of it, and solder it back together. So for all the modules that already was removed, airbags, EDC, idrive, Aircon and such, in my case it was just a case of following the lines from the connections at the modules, all the way back into the FEM/REM/Fusebox and from there undo the wires in the connectors. I took picture of everything in their location, if i happened to make a mistake, it would be possible to trace it back. But so far, i havent had any troubles. Im sure i could relocate the battery too and make the thick red + cables shortened down, but i plan to keep the battery at the rear of the car, also to keep the cable stripping a bit more simple. Otherwise im sure i could have saved a few kgs more - but im pretty satisfied by now, since it was my first time doing this work.

Wiring is now almost complete, there is still a few bits to do, like connecting fresh air and a blower motor, then make some usb connections too and wrap the last bits in tesa tape, then it should be finished. Coding is finished, and there are no codes regarding the cable work. So was it hard to figure out how to do the stripping of the cables? Not really. Does it takes a lot of time? Yes. Is it worth paying anyone 1-2k eur for that? IMO, No. You can easily do this yourself, just make sure to have an understanding of what you are working with - but it is not rocket science. So in total 4.7kgs of cable has been removed + all the other things BMW thought was an good idea to equipt the car with - so that is an really good improvement in weight savings So what is next? Lets see what is coming..

Hey Philipp, When you decide to build the 135i fully for the track, here are some inspiration I mean the level of detail here, like nothing compares to that, I just wish there was much more carbon fiber involved.. https://www.1addicts. com/forums/showthread.php?t=1713247

Thanks Dave. It is indeed a lot of work and very time consuming. But it is straight forward to do, when you start to see a pattern through all the million wires. Definately worth in the end.

A little bit more work has been done. Cable stripping is finished. I just need to check everything for the last time and then everything will be taped with tesa tape. Heaterbox and every other useless thing has been thrown into the bin. All this work has given quite a decent weight result. 30.5kgs has been thrown out of the bimmer. Which now with empty tank should sit around 1388kgs. Still with the OEM battery. Yes OEM AGM battery. I wonder how much lighter the car would be with carbon doors, carbon roof, carbon dash, plastic windows and lightweight battery 😅

Which is why so many makes them widebody, its not necessary, but it really helps transforming the car to the better. Christian from this forum, with the orange m140, has been able to mount a 265 square setup on his.. But i can tell you, his fenders on all corners, are pulled to the max!

For optimal brake cooling, I personally dislikes the scoop type of funnels, because everytime you hit a curb the control arms goes up, and the scoops is no longer getting airflow. Especially if you find yourself going on GP tracks, the more cooling is better. For the brake shield it is important that the inclosure doesnt cover the disc and directs the airflow directly to the center of the disc, then the heat inside vs outside is kept somewhere in a good balance. I used 60% of my brakepads this season, ive done 55laps NOS at 8 and sub 8 laps, full trackday at SPA, 2 full days of Nürburgring GP track, 5 hours at my local track setting many PB's this year. Discs can do 1 season more and a full set of another brake pad. +2500km road driving. PFC 331 endurance pads and PFC Discs on AP9665.

it had a lot of it.. but now i can get to the few parts that i didnt do last winter. its pretty easy to take with a heat gun and a spatula. afterwards its possible to remove the last bit with tar remover.

Some more work done. Starting to strip the cable wire. One by one. So far, ive removed 2.3kg of wiring, and there is still a lot of wiring left.

Some more work is being done.. its never a dull moment to own a racecar 🙈 this time, we continuing emptying the car. Im also planning to strip the cables if i find some manlyness and start chopping up the harnesses.. 🙈

We already tried to hunt the guy down. But nobody wanted to come forward. We even managed to get some BMW folks in the UK to tell us where the car was registered and such, but, the car did not have insurance and didnt have tüv either.

295 direzza also sits perfect on 10.5.. The lightest 10.5" rim you can buy for normal money i think is König Hypergram, 8.7kgs. ET is 25.