VikingPower

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About VikingPower

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    Racer

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    Dänemark

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  1. I didnt tell you to go there, i just said if they can register it - somebody else can too.. And tbh.. My cage from them was one of the cheaper things I know what you say and i don't disagree with you. But even people with expensive cars gets that kind of treatment. You can ask yourself, why 90% of their close customers went to the others and why not a single Mechanic is there anymore, from 2023 to 2024.. They just laugh at everyone who doesnt agree with them.. It doesnt matter if you spend 1k eur there or 20k euro.
  2. I mean if 247perf can supply and register them - others should be able to do the same..
  3. AST roll cages. Also very cheap.
  4. Exactly how ive driven the loop this year.. Mainly gone there for the GP track, and then spontaneously went to do a few laps on the loop.. Yellow flag for atleast 50% of my laps this year. Not worth spending that money - then the loop isn't more special than other tracks anyway.. SPA is for me the better track anyway.. But also other European tracks are at least as funny as the loop.. Why? Because you can often drive 10 rounds in a row without a single yellow or red flag - which means you can have consistency in your data of corner speeds etc etc.. The loop is mostly enjoyed by clowns that find is nice to sit in a traffic jam for 45 minutes to go of the track and do a round with 3 yellow flags. In what normal brain can you enjoy that? On top of this you pay 30-35 euros for that excluding your material abuse.. Or 3000 euros for the jahreskarte.. Its a joke..
  5. m235i

    looks über geil!! Very good work!
  6. This thread deserves a bowl of popcorn..
  7. Stage1 turbo is one of the answers - simply to reduce the overall stress and overspinning the turbo shaft and bearings. This is the 2nd engine in our group, the first one had less than 100k If i remember correct. Im pretty sure that a stage2/stage2+ on B58 and 470 ish hp, are running wastegate duty cycles very close to 90% or even higher which are the main reason for the shafts to simply explode. Run duty cycles below 80% and i'm confident that yourturbo can withstand the racetrack abuse a bit better. But 220k kms are still impressive and absolutely interesting that it didnt blow up earlier.
  8. No. F87, F80, F82 all the same.
  9. M. Wilhelmsen A/S They are just basic steel shims you should be able to have them in DE too.. Its just a 12x24mm or 12x18mm shim. I can't remember which i used. I believe it was 12x24mm i used.
  10. But the discs make the suspension bottom out earlier if you choose to stack them, which could be dangerous if that should happen mid corner (snap oversteer). I made the suspension for the rear of my car in combo with pfeifer 40mm shorter so main damper body and piston travel was eually shortened, to reduce kinematic changes at full droop. But the cup car body sits also 40mm higher on the body, than the equal m2/2series body, so naturally the car will be lower too. Suspension was revised 2 times until we met the desired travel without bottoming out. If i remember correct - i have around 36mm of compression travel before bottoming out - from ride height. Which in turn gives just 5mm until bumpstop interacts. And thats in combo with a very stiff spring 150-170 coilover mounted but soft damper settings. Using discs on the suspension or bumpstop tuning to reduce suspension travel, are a thing that is mainly used on high aero cars to not let the underside of the car go to low to the ground, and have aerodynamic washout also called purpoising. Formula1 cars in 2023 was severely hurt by that.
  11. @mattSo regarding you been running completely new discs, i would check elsewhere, like phil mentioned. My calipers was not centered fully to the discs but i didnt have any vibration on my kit either, so with the caliper offcenter a bit, shouldnt induce vibration. I did shim my calipers to extend disc life and reduce the offset wear on the disc. But that shouldnt be any of your issues at the moment. I think if you do as phil suggest and everything is fine, i would assume the antirattle should be removed, just to rule things out. Keep things as simple as possible then it should be easier to find the issue..
  12. Does your kit come with anti rattle on every other bolt or all bolts? If your kit comes like my former kit from them, with anti rattle for only half the bolts - you could try to remove them all. Check if the vibrations go away.. You could gain some clunking noise, but for a test dont pay attention to that just see if the vibration are gone. Or you could add the missing anti rattle for the bolts not supplied. But that will gain you some cost, without knowing if your problem will be solved. It doesnt make any sense now to check if the friction rings are straight, because they will not be - after you already drove them the last 1.5 years.
  13. Hopefully it will. I can't remember if the guy i mentioned before, drove with Me22 or so. But he was indeed annoyed about the whole thing obviously. Definately decent times around the GP. I personally hang around 2.20 ish with passenger onboard and traffic. So pace wise i believe we are not that far away from each other if i manage to get a clean lap in.. With the discs i run, have a lot of KM's on them. over 10000kms to be exact, and that being around 6000kms on track and 2400kms on highway from Nürb to DK back and forth to run in the engine before hitting the track. I remember everyone said to me, that the the PFC discs would just eat itself up extremely fast, tbh that hasnt been my case with them.. I still have a fair bit of life in them and they developed heat crack from just the get go turned blue and such, but performance are just there and no signs of cracking.. So if you don't get satisfied with your setup - i can definately say great things about PFC - but only in combination with PFC pads, otherwise they doesnt work.
  14. Very good information. I remember that they (55) where against the concept of float in the hat, because they said by the time that the hat would crack which was the reason for them to use float in the disc. But ive only seen the aftermarket disc crack so far. It happened to a guy i just did a lap with in the summer. That was his 3rd set of disc in 2024. So with your setup, with float in the hat, lets hope it doesnt crack the discs as easily as seen before its already your 2nd disc this year. With my pfc setup ive done 2 years so far, but i havent driven that much this year.. And my car is also 250kgs lighter than yours.. So..
  15. Ah yes, i see what you mean now. I just saw they eventually supplied with anti rattle on ALL screws unlike the system with the float in the disc. Interestingly enough, they (55) somehow went in an opposite direction from float in the disc to float in the hat system. Why? Because of off brand discs? better performance?