Absolutely, semi slick will always be THE option in dry condition, no matter the temp. You just need to find the right compound/tire model for the temperature you operate in.. Ideally, you would have 3 types of tires, UHP for the wet like ps4/4s cold/warm days, A soft semi like A052 for the colder days or damp surface and Direzza/CR-S for the hot summer days. That would be my personal 3 tire combo, if i was rich enough

So with AR1 being a softer compound, is really good in those temps. The CR-S fx, would take a lot of time to get heat into them.. Fx in Easter this year, i needed 2 full stints on Nürb GP to get the tires into a window where they started to be quite good.. Unfortunately, they lost pressure and temps, within 15minutes in the paddoc.. But the core still being warmish they just needed one lap to get into temperature and pressure again.. So for me, i have narrowed down, that the AR1 are mega in sub 15 degrees, above that, a different compound would be more optimal, if consistency is what you want.. Ar1, is really an easy tire to live with, if you arent driving longer stints at a time..

For sure.. drive drive drive and enjoy the capabillities of the car.. Just saw a fully stock one, with ps4s running sub 7.4x in sub optimal conditions.. So out of the box, the car is very capable..

Yeah, try tostep into a VW Golf Mk8, im sure you will get ticks from touching anything in there.. Its the worst new spec car, cabin quality wise i ever been in.. That goes for Audi B9 too.. Simply too much hard scratching plastic.. The days of high quality interiors seems to be gone in normal class cars.. The M cars, do retain some refinement.. But hard plastic is my enemy.. Id rather had hard metal.. It still feels quality, and doesnt squeek after some times.. Having it polstered with Alcantara, would be a good ide,especially if you dont plan to strip the weight out.. I mena, if want to strip in 3 years time then 3 years with alcantara makes sense.. Even if it cost a few thousand of euros.. Alcantara will emmidiately make it look like a highspec car, which it already is.

That interior.. Thats nice!

Looking forward to that.. I always like to see crazy builds, its like seeing a progress but without spending money myself I also think the forum needs more of the big builds shown, a lot can be learned from one build to another..

@m2arcel Are you gonna show some pics of the mega project you went through?

That is interesting.. 8ah battery lol :P Can you share a pic of how it fits in the space? Definately an interesting option, especially with the low weight..

Interesting! I will try to see if i can find out if there are any way to see/calculate how much Amp/Watts starter motor + what diverse electronic modules consumes when you go into the car and wants to start it. I can probably not find anything, but running a 20ah battery is possible would probably be more than i really need.

I also have done this, when registered the battery i mounted 1 year ago though not changing the size, since it was the same. AGM even at 20amps are just too heavy to make sense for a weight upgrade. Im at the point, where the car could be very close to a sub 1300kg half tank. (1365kg) with just a bit more than half a tank. So the more waight saving the better. Lithiumnext RACE40 weighs 2.6kgs.. But is not IBS optimized. Their Track60 are IBS compatible and weighs 4kg dead. So that is a 18kg weight saving. Allthough in the wrong end of the car, but then i must just remove more in the front

Powder coating the cage to what ever color you desire, shouldnt be too expensive.. But if you want it pretty invincible black would be fine.. I have one in black, but on my car, im going with black and white details for the yas marina blue color.. So my advice for you would be, find the color scheme you want to use on your black car, then make it throughout the whole build.. In my opinion, that is the most desireble thing to do.. Or just make it batman, black on black..

This morning the work van battery was dead. The BMW and the T5 share exactly the same battery.. So naturally im going to replace VW T5 battery with the one from the BMW, and now wants to install a Lithium one in the BMW. A few questions to that, How low on Ah can i go with the new lithium battery? In a normal BMW m135i they use 80ah AGM battery . As most of you already know, i dont have aircondition, heated seats, Idrive + soundsystem, heater matrix or anything niceness in the car. What i do have is Electric windows, 4 amp blower fan for interior cooling, 3 amp raspberry pi.. The BMW also have IBS (intelligent Battery Sensor). As I understand, its not possible to remove this system so i would have to replace with a lithium battery that is made for IBS?

-3.7 degree camber front -2.5 degree camper rear 1mm toe OUT front each corner. 1.5mm toe in rear each corner works really really well on my car. I don't find it too hard on the inside shoulders of the fronts.. Braking performance is really good too.. I personally like the fast turn in behavior, and then midcorner, less agressive steering dure to less angle on the outside side.. For trail braking this works really good and you can rotate the car nicely i slow corners, without snapping the rear.. At least, that how i like the setup. With 1.5mm toe in on the rear, i dont find the rear too lazy as it is with 2mm..

Cristian Vidal did 6.55 in a full interior F80 600ps but with Hoosier Dot E slicks on 18".. Both the CupR and the Hoosier are real cheater tires So you are completely right, the tires do the biggest difference on an already capable car!

Nice, good to see that Carsten! Mega color for the M2! Big congratulations on the purchase!