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About VikingPower

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  1. Sorry i havent answered you before now. - Sure I will to call them and have an appoitment, when needed. I just found out locally to me, there is a shop who has a Hunter alignment tool, so i think i'll let them do the aligment, with the specs i have received in this thread. I have read alot of good reviews of KW clubsport, but i'm afraid that it probably will be out of my price range. Bilstein B16 Pss10 is probably what i can justify to pay for. But what kind of H&R suspension do you have in mind? Maybe i can combine something that already works with my H&R springs, if i just need to change my dampers, i kind of like the right height that i have currently. But i definately want lesser bodyroll and bouncing in the corners. Thank you for you dvices, i appreciate it alot!
  2. Thanks buddy! That some very helpful information. I did think go to Raeder/Manthey, next time i'm around Nurburg, to get a proper alignment and maybe some tips to improve on my car.. Oh man, who wouldnt love a Manthey build gt3rs Well well, dreams are there to head you in the right direction or just to sleep better Next winter i will plan to do some coilovers.. I think i want something 2 ways with rebound/damping setting in one knob, just to make it a little more simple for me to adjust.
  3. Okay, i will try your alignment setup this summer, and see how well the car will perform this summer on road and track. I will attend some trackdays at Padburg park this year, they have already put out the dates on their website. I am as a driver also more comfortable with a car stable at higher speeds, i have been on the Nordschleife for the first time in August, and i could immediatly feel how unstable my rear end felt.. i drove both the GP track and the Nordschleife and man that was some fun. Now i just need to upgrade the car and come back and do more laps next time. Oh back on subject.. i have no plans of uniballs unfortunately, in Dänemark TüV wont approve of use, so i would need to mount some sort of a stiffer rubber bushings or something like millway bushings perhaps. The thing is, if there are clicking noises from any suspension parts, when they test for play, they will tell me it is broken and shouldnt do that. so I am well aware of what i can do and cant do, unfortunately. thank you for chiming in to stear me in the right direction with alignment specs, and ofcourse also thanks to the other guys chiming in.
  4. Hi yes, i know it is a lot of camber, but it seems to work pretty well, i dont have issues with front tyres locking up under hard braking, so i think is still sufficient. I made some measurements with a ruler back in Decmber with the rim width and 255 tyres, if i remember correct, the rubber surface had 228 mm from outside to outside where it is mounted to the rim and the rim had 229 mm from inside lip to inside lip, so there are basically zero stretch on the sidewalls but there are some rim protection from the tyre sidewall.. Yes i understand wheel alignment is a learning by doing process, but also if a very good source of information like books/other people experience can help a lot to stear one in the right direction. And as you are saying, you are definately right in this term "Many workshops even don’t know how to do this stuff correctly", in Denmark we have so little motorsport capable people, because it is really not in our DNA as a country. Motorist are sadly a hated culture here.. If you are a petrolhead, some people automatically think you are an uncultured idiot. This is also, why I as a Danish man, have been going to a german trackdayforum, because germans have a lot more experienced especially on the higher end sport cars.
  5. I need to run at least 2.8 front camber, because i run a 18x9 rim with 255 ns2r, otherwise my front tires are going to scrape on the fenders. I know that the inside of my wheel will wear faster, but i am okay with that. But i see your recommendations are very close to Xerik so i will definately try to aim for an alignment close to both of you. What would the difference be with more or lesser toe in, in the rear have a impact on?
  6. With your front toe at 0°00, how was the straight line stability? I have around -3° camber, so i think with a slight toe in, i should be okay, without riding on the outer shoulder? I like that you use a little toe in - in the back, i can imagine that the rear end feels stable going through fast corners? Are the 0°12 the total toe? (0°06 each wheel?)
  7. The car is on H&R springs with stock EDC dampers.
  8. Bump
  9. Hi guys I have millway street camber plates on its way, and also an M4 alu strutbrace (BMW 7855865) with reinforcement for support bearing (BMW 31302285700) to retrofit on my f21. I would like to hear you BMW F20/F21 owners wheels alignment setup, for use on track and/or also on road. I would like to have SOME sharp turn in, but i also want straight line stability, because of daily driving, i know i cant have the best of both worlds, but i am okay with that.
  10. Thank you! I already have a 255 on a 9 inch, on the rear wheels.. they actually measure 263mm, so i would also guess, that the same tyre in 235, should measure close to 245.. Guess, i'll have to wait and see, when i get them around :-)
  11. Hi Guys I am in this situation right now, that cant figure out if a Nankang NS-2R in the 235 dimensions (Secton wide propbably close to a 245) could fit a 9 inch wheel? Does any of you have any pictures with this combination? Preferable pictures of 18x9 rim with 235/40-18 Semi slick tyres. Best regards Lars Google Translated: Hallo Leute Ich bin gerade in dieser Situation, die nicht herausfinden kann, ob ein Nankang NS-2R in den 235-Dimensionen (Secton breit wahrscheinlich nahe an einem 245) ein 9-Zoll-Rad passen könnte? Hat jemand von euch Bilder mit dieser Kombination? Bevorzugte Bilder von 18x9 Felgen mit 235 / 40-18 Semi Slick Reifen. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Lars
  12. Im trying to mount a 9 inch wheel up front with a 255 tire, to run a square setup, so i cant run M4 lca, unfortunately. Maybe they are to soft, but cant i just buy a stiffer spring rate, and the turn dampening and compression up? I think the KW V3 or something similar will first be bought next winter, and the camber plates will be with me in january so i can testfit before ordering rims to the front of the car. My driving will be 80% road and 20% track. So i want something that can be turned relative stiff to track days. I know i wont get the BEST track setup, but what i want are something decent, for both track and street.
  13. You cant get st with camber plates for my type of car, unfortunately. KW V3 comes without camber plates, and i think i will put on a V3 on my car, its still a daily car, i driven 42000 kms, since august last year. And also i think for a rookie like me, you dont need to have a 2500 eur clubsport suspension to learn how to drive and become faster and faster. :-)
  14. Hi Thomas Thank you for your reply, and also thank you for the Protrack Rims, they came in today :-D That sounds good it's not a completely waste of money, i will as you say, need to start off from a pricepoint where i can be with for now. Upgrading, turbo, wheels and tires arent cheap coming, and also christmas presents for the family. So one must do what he can, and stille have some satisfaction. I think i somehow will go KW v3 and have these Millway camber plates on top of them, arent this sufficient enough for track driving? I am nobody to judge what is good and bad, from a drivers perspective, i have everything to learn, so my guess are a 2500 eur clubsport coilover are overkill, vs a cheaper version, like the KW V3.. Thanks to you and everybody for the replys! Keep em coming. .
  15. HI Okay, i will try to write to Millway and hear what they will suggest, they must know what could be optimal, and also could tell me if my wishes can be met. :-D