Yes, but regarding the reverse camera, i'm not sure how that would work, but i havent searched for that information either, so i guess you have more knowledge on that subject. For the power supply inside the car, i have this one ; https://www.berrybase.de/step-down-netzteilmodul-4-38v-1-25-36v/5a-mit-schraubklemmen?c=349 You can't use the cigaret power, because that only supply 2.4AMP, and this is not enough to power up the raspberry. I already tried something like that with the normal charging adapters that follows when you buy a smartphone. So to shut down the Raspberry pi, isn't as simple. You need to have a flip switch on the negative terminal to cut power to the Raspberry. But you also need a toggle switch to tell the OS to shut down or if that is build into the OS like it is on Android, you can just use that. Its really not the perfect unit (Raspberry Pi), but if you can work around how it works, i would say that it is very cool smart little thing.

Yes, it was exactly the same as the video, i just didnt know if you found the website too. :-) Allright, let me check up on that DIY on the 10hz gps. Sounds just very interesting. The Crankshaft NG program looks also interesting especially for a street car. Personally i wanted a solution without having to use the phone, since i always forget to connect before heading out to the track. So i build my setup with LineOS Android from konstakang, Then added NikkGapps For having google play store on the device. So i have downloaded my most used program to that device, Google Maps, MHD tuning, and RaceChrono Pro. I will run MHD datalogging together with the Racechrono while on track. I just need to make adjustments, so these programs are started up when turning on the Raspberry. I will probably do some interior work in a few weeks time, then i can post some photos of my setup. If i where you, i would think about how you can integrate either the raspberry diy system into your car or just simply buy a cheap Android tablet. I believe with the options you are sharing, you are limited to only android auto. If i read it correct, you can't install any operating system on those, and then i guess you can't have any laptiming running on the screen either.

I guess if the guy wanted to build something himself, i guess it because he can't justify spending thousands of euroes on such a project. Otherwise, i would belive he would just buy the AiM unit, en enjoy that thing, like a lot of other guys do. My raspberry setup incl touchscreen has so far been less than 200euros, but i still need a GPS receiver,which should cost almost the same as the unit itself. I won't use it as a dash, like OP wants, i simply don't believe that the raspberry has enough power to run live dash, laptiming and engine logging at the same time and have screen space enough to show you everything either. But what can you expect from such a cheap device anyway.

True, but why offer something that's based on a DIY thing, which is nearly as pricey as an AiM unit? I try to find the sense in that, nothing else.

@hiking chicanery tvi think you find this link usefull.. https://www.beavismotorsport.com/RaspberryPiDash/

If you count in the total price of one of their unit's, 1000dollars, plus 19%vat and shipping maybe another 80 dollars = 1270 dollars or ca. 1170eurs. You can have an AiM MXS 1.3 strada for 1450euro. At this point i dont know exactly what else is required to run one or the other. But i would personally in that price point, go with the AiM. I already build an Raspberry Pi4, running a 10inch touchscreen, in a setup for engine parameters and laptiming running simoultaniously. I just need to finish up the interior bits, before installing it and hardwire it into the power scource of the car. I already looked into making it into a dash, but to be fair its not the best unit for that on such a new car as the F series. For that, i would go the AiM route or something similar that is robust enough that application. @wanderschikanentvIm looking forward to see how you set up your Pi and how it works in your car.

It's really not that big of a difference, we are talking 0.2inch in difference that's equal to 5mm. Let's see how that influence flow and back pressure. For two 2.5" pipes: Area_total, 2 pipes = 2 * (π * (2.5)^2 / 4) Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * (π * 6.25 / 4) Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * (19.635 / 4) Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * 4.90875 Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 9.8175 square inches For a single 3.5" pipe : Area_single pipe = (π * (3.5)^2 / 4) Area_single pipe ≈ (π * 12.25 / 4) Area_single pipe ≈ 38,485 / 4 Area_single pipe ≈ 9,621 square inches So with these numbers we now know the pipe difference. I've used this date for the formula; Engine Power (P_engine): 450 hp (approximately 335175 W) Mass Flow Rate (m_dot) from MAF sensor: 360 kg/s Temperature of Exhaust Gases (T): Average between 700 and 900 degrees Celsius (873 K) Gas Constant (R ): 0.287 kJ/(kg K) (0.287 × 10^3 J/(kg K)) For Two 2.5" Pipes: Combined Cross-sectional Area (A_{2.5 inch, total}): A_{2.5 inch, total} ≈ 9.817 Calculate Temperature (T) in Kelvin: T_{min} = 973.15 K (for 700°C) T_{max} = 1173.15 K (for 900°C) Calculate Mass Flow Rate (m_{dot}): m_{dot} ≈ 25.987 (for T_{min}) m_{dot} ≈ 24.086 (for T_{max}) Calculate Pressure Difference (Delta P_{2.5 inch}): Delta P_{2.5 inch} ≈ 15718.497 (for T_{min}) Delta P_{2.5 inch} ≈ 14495.282 (for T_{max}) Calculate Airflow Rate (Q_{2.5 inch}): Q_{2.5 inch} ≈ 4.798 (for T_{min}) Q_{2.5 inch} ≈ 4.670 (for T_{max}) Calculate Backpressure (Backpressure_{2.5 inch}): Backpressure_{2.5 inch} ≈ 0.021 (for T_{min}) Backpressure_{2.5 inch} ≈ 0.020 (for T_{max}) For a Single 3.5" Pipe: Calculate Cross-sectional Area (A_{3.5 inch}): A_{3.5 inch} ≈ 9.621 Calculate Mass Flow Rate (m_{dot}): m_{dot} ≈ 25.987 (for T_{min} ) m_{dot} ≈ 24.086 (for T_{max}) Calculate Pressure Difference (Delta P_{3.5 inch}): Delta P_{3.5 inch} ≈ 6289.248 (for T_{min}) Delta P_{3.5 inch} ≈ 5797.641 ( for T_max) Calculate Airflow Rate (Q_3.5 inch): Q_3.5 inch ≈ 3.580 (for T_min) Q_3.5 inch ≈ 3.486 (for T_max) Calculate Backpressure (Backpressure_ 3.5 inch}): Backpressure_{3.5 inch} ≈ 0.198 ( for T_{min}) Backpressure_{3.5 inch} ≈ 0.183 (for T_{max}) The backpressure is influenced by various factors, including the total cross-sectional area, temperature, and mass flow rate. In the case of the two 2.5" pipes, while the combined cross-sectional area is larger, the mass flow rate (which depends on engine power, temperature, etc.) and the specific design of the system also play crucial roles. The higher mass flow rate and the design of splitting the flow into two pipes can contribute to higher backpressure despite the larger total cross-sectional area. So with that in mind, I will now show 2 systems from Active Autowerks, The reason for this, is I would look at them, and think about what design from a visual stand point, would most likely be optimal for flow. To me, the less bends and direction changes in the whole system is better for flow. BUT, I can't say if there really is a difference between the 2 pipes in the EL configuration, I don't have access to that information. But from a visual standpoint, i think i will induce more backpressure, than the pipe next to it, so one turbo would see a greater amount of force. image_cb3ce37d-0aa4-419e-baca-f5e07d06ef5d_1024x1024.webp M2CEL2_2048x_0afc20ef-130a-486a-8e59-08d2f5c6b60b_1024x1024.webp

True. But as this point, we can only speculate because we have not any measurements to rely on. But from a visual stand point of the design, i would personally go with a single midpipe, and preferable single all the way to the back, and mounted to a custom exhaust silencer. I would from a best guess, thnk that could be possible in germany too? as long the silencer has an CE/ECE approval? Or how do you go about with custom exhaust, like Inkedcustom makes?

Ah okay, i didnt know it makde such a big difference, on the N55 its not doing much, atleast not on the non M car. But the cat does a lot to the sound. Its hard to have good flowing exhaust and a good sound with the s55. I see many of the EL pipes has a million direction changes, that must be building some backpressure, but i don't know. The most ideal would to be have a car not too loud and still have it sound exceptionally good.

I fully agree! Which is also why the fake "M" handles like shit - compared, to a real M car. But it can be fixed, using M parts or motorsport parts adjusted accordingly.

Here is the differences between them all. The M2 n55 isnt much different to ANY of the other N55's. But there is a few. The strongest most reliable N55 engine are the EWG ones, they also produce more power and runs overall better than the old PWG. Easier to tune, easier to keep in the right range for knock control/cylinder timing correction. I have driven more than 70000kms total with the N55 engine over the last 4.5 years. But the car was'nt driven for 1 year because it went into upgrade mode. Its not as bad an engine as some would think. You just have to know how to work around the engine, ive learned it the hard way, when i spun the engine on the M135i because of not installing the s55 oilpump system, running a 265/295 tire setup. Even with a slush baffle in the sump, it obviously wasnt enough to keep the oil at the right location in the sump. I now run the M2 N55 engine, which has the S55 oilsystem from factory, after more than 4000kms on track only, theres not been any problem at all. With a non M car running the m2 sump/engine, you will need to shim the left engine bracket a little, otherwise it will touch the subframe.

Is definately possible with the VW T5 with the combi of that gearbox and that low power output, to achieve some decent economy. I wouldnt suspect its different with the model you are looking on. But i personally wouldn't take an 1.6 litre engine for towing. I will admit, that i would love to either have the 6speed or the dsg model, and then a 140hp, but the last part is easy to work out, since the 114ps engine is the same as the 140ps. But its totally doable running as it is, in the German mountains. I will report back, how the setup will work in the Alps. I'm already slowly warming the wife up, to either drive the van+trailer and me driving the track car in behind Or vice versa.. What ever she prefers to do. I think she will take the 1er.. She loves to drive it.. But she won't admit that, but i have seen her chuckle silently while driving that car.

I think we speak through each other. I didnt really write i was having a quarter tank left. I wrote i barely had that, so that means less than a quarter tank. But i also wrote that i used 10-11 liter in my first writing, and what i meant here, was km/l. But that was a mistake i didn't see until now. Obviously nobody cares about 1litre plus minus unless you drive a 18metres truck and tow your car in the trailer of that. The camping part makes it easier, and cheaper if you care about that. But most importantly you ALWAYS have a car to drive home, if you put the track car on the roof, in the fence or similar.

I'm all in for the coaching part. But its definately not everyone who gain much from it. A regular track go'er i know off, still hasnt been able to go sub 8, or similar. He has done just about 100 laps in 23 and is sitting in a total of around 200 laps, spent a lot of money on coaching too.. Yet he is slower than me. Same car model. But definately different.. And then on the other hands, there is a lot of guys i personally know, who is running sub 7.4x in the same car. but they have all over 500 laps and are very regular goer to NOS. Only one of them is not a widebody :-D With the right car from the get go, you can be really fast. But if you start out with a poop car.. You have to rework it.. In Carstens case, he starts out on a good starting point. The M cars just handle differently from factory than non M. Even the basic VW GTI's, megane iv rs-trophy, are all very good straight out of the box. But i dont know what BMW did with the F20/F21.. I guess most people remember Jeremy Clarkson on Top Gear in 2013/2014 got overtaken by the tail of that M135i in a straight line race - against the VW Golf 7 GTI..

Im driving with a VW T5 2.0 114hp. It drives fine, but when you come to the mountains in fx Kassel or others around Nürburgring where the incline is over several kilometers, the car simply goes to around 80kmhs. That's with a 1480kg car, around 200kg in the VAN too.. I live in the van when out. For me it's not a problem, moving with that slow pace. Straight at 100km/h no problem, fuel consumption around 10-11 liters. I can drive non-stop from my house in Denmark to Nürburgring in 7.5/8 hours with the speed around 100kmh, and still have just a little under than a quarter tank left. I believe the fuel tank on my T5 is 80 liters.

Dude... come on..

It is indeed possible to learn to do that in a high powered car too. I did. I only know one guy who drives the same times as me on our local track, but he has driven that track for 3 years done many trackdays there. I have done less than 5 trackdays there, and only driven the track in my own car in 2023. The guy I know did in his M2C with same specs as my car buildwise the exact same time 1:06.1. In his old m140ix, he was exactly 2 secs slower :-D Misha drove his m140i and called it the best 1series he has driven.... Yet, that one series couldnt do lower laptimes than 1:08.1. Doesn't really matter if the car has 90 or 500hp, if the car feels on the limit because you simply receive zero feedback from it, then you can try fight it all you want or just fix it and move on. That's a least how I look on it, and it doesn't mean its correct for you, but for me it was. And now I can naturally drive the car almost without an issue. On the limit its not snappy at all..

I also understand what you mean But the racing driver has been driving since he could walk, he has had the right assistance throughout his whole life and has since then, developed a feeling throughout many years. As a young male, you per nature goes over the limit very often, because the brain is simply not developed enough to understand the risk. As you get older as you know, you understand consequences a little bit better too, but by then (as a pro driver), you have already developed a technique through the last 20+ years, that you can trust in those sitations when you get into a new car or so. I don't see the point always chasing the limit on every part you install, in the end, you are still going to build your car to what ever spec your wallet and your desire wants. But as you said and adviced - change what you don't like - and i did exactly that. I changed 90% between both license plates, and the car is on a whole different level now, it can make everyone drive fast, because you are being hit really hard with a lot of feedback. Only stock parts left on the car, are the roof, the doors, the windows, the battery, and the gearbox. I can dance with the car on the limit on a whole another level on my local track. Im less than 9 seconds of the pace from the lap record here done in a 911 GT3 R, so i find myself not the slowest driver on a familiar track. Yes everyone can do what they want. And there are simply not only one cookie recipe. But advocating that it is best to slowly build your car is in my opinion nonsens. It really depends on what you want to do with the car, and what you expect in return from the car.

interesting that there is differences between ECE approvals. I have to look into that, to see if both my ECE downpipe (HJS) and ECE exhaust (Ego-X) can be operated together without issues. As in DK you can actually have the car seized if they have an idea that the emissions isnt arent met. I would also have to dig deeper into our laws here, regarding the ECE approvals.

You are both right and wrong, let me explain; You will never be able to get confident with the car, if the car doesn't speaks to you, am i right or am i wrong? The lack of feedback on the F21 as a basic upgraded car is astonishing,in my opinion. Do you ever wonder, why so many owners convert them to widebody? That's probably because the M2 (F87) is a completely different car in terms of dynamic and feedback. I drove an M2 on track while my car was being build wider and that's when i learned how bad the F2x series handles or the lack of feedback given to the driver. I think what you are saying, is very conflicting, On my first lap in the car after it was build wider, i immediately shed almost a minute off the laptime around NOS and a few rounds later the engine simply died. I would normally hang around 9.15min with the basic clubsport upgrade. I manage to do a 8,17 in 2022 in October, that year i did 6 laps in total. Last season '23, i managed to go under under 8. (7.51) So i naturally became faster with the faster car, and the reason for this, except driving more, is that i was confident with the car, straight out of the garage, the feedback given to you as a driver, is completely different. I also drove a friends car last year, in the same weekend i did the sub 8 lap, a M140i with the basic clubsport upgrade too, I drove so slowly in his car because i was lacking a lot of feedback from the tarmac and the grip of the tires. But he simply drives the same laptime as me (sub 8) in his car. So the car out of the box, in my hands, are simply lacking a lot, to make me as a driver faster. I have owned other cars, who out of the box gave way more feedback. I dont know what simply is wrong with the F2x chassis, but i personally can't drive that car fast. And just to be fully clear, its not only me who has that problem, you see it with racingdrivers too, who isnt comfortable with the car, i know that this is on a higher level. But the theme is the same.

Sometimes some people just dream about taking a brand new car apart, and convert it to the best it can be in their eyes. It seems to be very normal, to buy a car, and convert it very slowly, and people preaching that is the right thing to do. Why? For me personally, i didnt have 70k euro to convert my car, in one go. So that was my "why" to not get it done in one step, otherwise i would have done exactly that. I guess other would do to, if they had the exact budget laying around just for that. I personally think its more expensive to do things step by step instead of just go all in from the get go. I would guess this is why some people with deeper pockets buy cars directly from Schirmer, they ultimately buy the best for the platform, while still being fully road legal and they don't have to think about this and that. They can then spend their brain activity elsewhere, earning more money, spending more time with family/friends or simply just want to be part of the Schirmer thingy for the sake of the "branding". I can very much myself relate to Carsten, when i started out converting my own car, i was just in the same rollercoaster as him, figuring out what is good and whats needs to be taken care off, before hitting the track the first time. So i eventually just started out with the diff, subframe alu bushes, suspension, wheels+tires and brake pads. Because thats what i read on the forums that everyone did. For me personally, i didnt gain more confidence in the car. It didnt quite handle or gave feedback to me as a driver. I actually crashed the car 4 times, by having the rear end surprise me. I was lucky everytime, that no damage occured. So after a while, i started a bigger conversion and me being a little cheap, ultimately cost me an engine after 4 laps of Nordschleife with the car physically bigger. But finally the car was much more predictable easy to drive and so. So at this point, ive learned to just listen to people who knows a thing or 2 and have actually worked in the field of motorsport. I came to a workshop and was allowed to do work on my own cars, sparring with other mechanics while being there. So ive gained a lot of knowledge on how things gets done when you build trackspec cars. I know not everyone can or are even allowed to do so, but i'm happy i had the oppotunity with my own car. Because on the forums you can only learn so much, but there are always conflicting details, and you never really fully know whats up or why you have this and this problem. If you ever get the opportunity to pick a motorsports mechanic brain and really suck the info to you, you start to see, they follow a complex, but thin red line pattern, throughout every build. When you then tend to sparring with other guys, who does the same, but with different shops, you clearly see there isnt much of a difference in how they do, because its the same redline they follow more or less. The moral of the story is, there is no right and wrong approach to how to convert your car. But you have to find the right pattern to what is optimal for your platform to make it better, and not just different from the series car.

https://www.turboperformance.shop/en/exhaust-technology/downpipes-kats/hjs-down-pipes/bmw/bmw-m2-m3-m4-3.0-euro-6/58980/hjs-downpipe-bmw- s55-m3/m4-cs/gts-f80/f82/f83-3.0-euro-6d-with-opf-ece-90822040-br-br-strong-important-notice/strong-this-is-an-automatic- translation.-please-note-that-only HJS makes them with ECE approval, so you don't need any papers. So you should be able to combine with any exhaust on the market, which either has ECE or other TÜV approval. It is expensive but I can personally say that HJS works really well. I use one on my N55 (300cell). Edit; I would actually say this M3 sounds really good, even though it doesn't have EL pipes. So it seems that the cats can also do something nicely for the sound of the S55.

Fully agree @Fox906bg And remove the stupid burbles too.