A small test lap yesterday. Only 6 laps this year, but so far everything is slowly being dialed in. 

vor 2 Stunden schrieb MCK:

Richig stabiles Teil. Sowohl optisch mit dem Breitbau als auch das Gewicht ist bombe!

Danke dir! 

vor 3 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

1365 kg is very good total weight !! 

Yes, its a big improvement over last year.. Where the car was sitting at 1479 kgs, with 30kg ballast and full tank. 
So now with full tank, the car is sitting just above 1400kg without driver. Thats not too bad. This is also done with the oem battery. I keep this battery until the car is less heavy on the front.. But im struggling to remove more weight there.. Everything is possible, but money isnt growing on trees lol :P 

Have now done 6 laps on the schleife, mainly testing and adjustning the setup on the car.
 
To be fully clear, I ordered a suspension with my measurement needs, I did the alignment, I did the corner weight, I did the suspension Bump/Rebound adjustment!
Im also still a friend and customer of 247performance and do consult with Karl when needed. But it's also not rentabel for me, to go to a workshop 700kms from my house, everytime I want to try different settings on my car.
So yes, i bought everything needed to measure everything out myself. No it was not cheap, no its not easy work. But it's also not rocket science to do this yourself.   
With that out of the picture we can continue with the subject. 

The changes over the winter, has transformed the car into an animal, i need to learn to tame.
With a half tank and 1365kgs + around 500ps, its really fast and violent.
In the corners, its also very agile now. But its still super predictable to drive and you can play a little with the rear on the limit, without snap oversteer. The understeer a had issues with last year, seems to be fully gone. But i need to double check that, on a different track than NOS. I'm very close to have dialed in the damper setup, but i will need to wait to conclude anything there, until i can get the CR-S into high temps (70+ degrees celcius). My car plus driving style seems to be very kind on the tires now.. Last year, my car was rough on the tire shoulders.. Not so much, even though my pace are nearly the same.. 

What can be the reason for this? The weight that went down or simply just my different alignment compared to last year?  I run less toe-in on the rear than before.

Also for this season i'm on the CR-S instead of the AR1.. This tires seems to be a huge improvement, when they get into temps.. In cold and damp, they are so much more sketchy than ar1.. but the compound are also much harder then.. So it explains a lot.. But so far.. Im very happy and enjoy the journey of learning the process of adjust everything by myself. 

Here is a Pic from yesterday.  

vor 17 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

@VikingPower

I feel the same way. I would call the tire good-natured. The grip doesn't tear abruptly but rather softly. This means you can catch the tires again with relatively little work. If the rear breaks out, you just need to lift the gas a little.
The wear pattern also looks very good for us. The tire wears cleanly across its entire width. Not even the profile edges are worn on one side.

The rear stepped out under breaking lol.. So i was already off the loudness pedal  But yes, even in an oversteary acceleration scenary, you can just lift the throttle just a bit, and the rear comes nicely into place again. 
But yes, the wear pattern so far looks very decent. I only done 6 laps so far, and i find them that they heat up very slowly. I need atleast a full lap plus half lap, until the temps are up in an area where the grip is very good. Around 50 degrees celsius, they start to become very very good imo. 

Good to hear Boesi! I just did 2 laps yesterday on the schleife.. The grip compared to the ar1 and predictabillity compared to Cup2 are miles better! 
I like this tire, it is very forgiving on the limit of grip, just like the AR1. I had a moment where the rear came out, but as soon as i went off the brake, the rear came straight into place again. Very lovely behavior without any drama what so ever. 
I'm at the ring the whole week, so i will report back, on my own thread what i find with these tires.. 
 

Holy shit, that was a code brown moment.. 

vor 20 Stunden schrieb racy_estate:

Well, I cheated a little bit. I did this professionally, so I know many real vehicle weights and the weights of the parts. And your conversion is really well documented!  With a full tank the f/r ratio should be even slightly better. I like that 

Ah yes, then it makes sense.. 
I try to use this page here as a diary, and document the process. It could serve some other people down the road or maybe not. But yes with full tank without driver the F/R balance should be even better. right now i think it is 53/47 percent. Thats not too bad. But at this point i will keep the stock battery, until i have removed enough weight fromt he front of the car. But its starting to getting pretty hard from here on. Things that could make a difference, would be full carbon front fenders + front bumpers. That should lower the weight at least 5kgs. But the price would be 3-5k euro.. So maybe 1k euro for each kg of weight saving. Not ideal at the moment, maybe later on - who knows really.  

vor 5 Stunden schrieb racy_estate:

1380kg at this conditions :-)

You where not far off the weight! 

Yesterday bought out more work, interior is almost completed at this stage. Thats mega really, because the easter shenanigans are just around the corner and im starting to be ready to go on track again.. 

Who can guess the weight of the car at this stage? With half tank, no driver and with standart battery..  

vor 9 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

For me the CR-S is new.... So, Padborg wants a testing day for me... But never the less also finding out what is working the best is also fun

for sure! 
Im going to Nurb so im not going to Padborg this month.. :-)

vor 27 Minuten schrieb Boesi:

I drive the CR-S on public roads at 2.3 bar.
I just had so little air in the tire at the beginning.
You didn't notice that when driving normally.
The tire was always rock hard on the side.
Almost like a run flat. I know how loud the AR-1 is.
I would never want to drive that.

I think you will see less tread wear with higher .1 or .2 bar higher pressure. 
Atleast thats what i saw wth AR1.. i drove 2.3 bar hot, compared and before that i drove 2.1/2.2.. Night and day differences on tread wear.

So regarding the stiff sidewalls and carcass too, i guess thats one of the tradeoffs from buying "cheaper" performance/semi slick tires. Manufactures have to save somewhere in the process.. 
For everyday use an AR1 is too loud.. But on the track, i personally dont care. i dont have time to sit and be annoyed from a loud tire. to me it can be beneficial, when you have a diff that will destroy your hearing in the long run.. 

21 hours ago Boesi wrote:

I drive them in 265/295/30 on 10+11x19" 

I'm curious. It could be that I need to adjust the suspension. The sides are so hard that at 1.8 bar you think there are 3 bar in there. And yet the tires are only slightly louder than Cup2 

Then you havent driven AR1.. They feel like cinder blocks compared to the CR-S, very crashy over uneven surface and such..
The sidewalls are stiff on NS2R, AR1 & the CR-S.. It seems to be a trademark of Nankang motorsports tires.. I have run all 3 tires on the same car. 
Btw, you shouldn't drive around 1.8 bar.. More like 2.4-2.5 on the street.   

Also cup2 are soft like butter and lacks everything a Nankang gives.. Especially on grip and feedback. 

Another eventfull day of work.. 

A bit of more work has been done the last couple of days. 
The control panel is starting to form into something usefull and driver cooling is also added.. Still need to figure out a solution, to keep rainwater out of the intake hose for the ventilation. 

And a small test of the actuator was made too.. 

Am 8.3.2024 um 20:07 schrieb xerik:

Hej! Yes! I did drive around 1,2mm of toe in per side in the rear. Anything below that wasn't stable enough for me when going really fast, especially on the Ring where I didn't want the rear to rotate so aggressively.

 

 

I can fully agree to that.. With the 1.5mm toe it does drag a bit, but it helps keep heat in the rear tires at fast sections on NOS and also help keep them in the same window as the 265 fronts doing warm up laps.. The downside to that toe is its a bit lazy in tight corners. But for a driver like me, its very easy to control the oversteer, when it happens. 
This year, i will experiment a lot more on toe angles, from 1.5mm to 0 toe. Just to learn how the car reacts and what ias a driver feel from that too.. 

vor 12 Minuten schrieb xerik:

For comparison: I drove 0°13 - 0°14 toe-in per wheel at the rear and know many people who drove exactly these values on the same car because the rear is simply quieter.
That's about '20 toe-in. The information above will refer to the entire axle, i.e. total track.
Accordingly, that would only be '10 toe-in per wheel, which is approximately 0°07 - 0°08 and is therefore very close to the limit of what you should have at LEAST toe-in on the rear axle of the 140i.

I don't think I need to explain the difference between angular minutes (e.g. 0°10) and mm ('10).

 

So about 1mm to 1,3mm of toe in on the rear pr side was your earlier setup? 
I drive around 1.5mm (0,19 degrees) toe in. Super stable and predictable rear from that. 

I personally benefit from the rear stabillity.. I know of some guys who runs 0 toe and another who runs a little toe out on an X-drive 140i.. I cant drive a car that is that nervous on the rear fast. But it seems to be working for them.. 
I could do with less toe on the rear on smaller tracks.. The best option would be to adjust toe on the car, from track to track.. 

vor 4 Stunden schrieb Fox906bg:

Apart from the oiling during a cold start, you should not neglect the increased oil pressure caused by the thicker oil.
I don't know how the N55 reacts to this; with VAG engines you can sometimes see this in slight washouts at the bearing points.
The load on seals, lines, filters, etc. is of course also higher.
It's not usually the case that the engine will fall apart immediately, but it does contribute to a certain amount of wear and tear when you actually wanted to achieve exactly the opposite.

Ive seen good results on N55 running 10w60 year round, without issues for a couple of years on the same engine, which is daily driven and also a regular trackday car i the summer. So i'm personally not worried about the w50 being too thick on the platform. But with BMW engines, it is quite normal to see metal shavings in the oil filter. I would expect to change bearings every 50000km's.. 

47 minutes ago Fox906bg wrote:

Because it's more precise in measuring, compared to having tools hanging on your wheels, tire deformation/deflection etc.

For question 2 I don't have an answer because I always did the alignment with strings around the car. Works really good to me.

 

Thanks!
I ended up with a string system, hanging on the front and back of the car, so i guess same system you use. Turnplates for the wheels and then using rulers that measure full and half millimeters. A bit of a long process doing it that way, but the toe was set and car drives very decent now. Guess as i gain more experience that way, the process will be faster/easier.

Over the weekend a little more happened, thanks to Froonki for making this..
 

Am 2.3.2024 um 18:43 schrieb FllSnd:

Dann bin ich mal gespannt wie das real life klingt 

And then you know what to do afterwards... Sound clips 

vor 2 Stunden schrieb InlineSix:

15W50 is pretty rubbish when it comes to oiling, so go down to 5W50 (Mobil 1 for example) or read a bit in the Oil Club to see if your engine and application has already been discussed.

Otherwise - great box!

greetings

Martin
 

Interesting.. Why is the 15w50 rubbish? Ive ran over 6000kms last season with tha.. And just made an oilchange today, with the same.. No metal in the filter so far.. With a 5w40 i had metal.. 
I do idle the car 5-10min before taking off to reach oil temp around 50celsius for better lubrication when engine is loaded.. 

vor 20 Stunden schrieb Burstrusher5000:

128 oil would definitely be too much for me, with the Do88 package and the Kotte software set to 419 hp and climate, I had maximum values for oil and water at 30 degrees outside temperature around 115/110, which should be much better than 128 degree oil. I also had the Mosselmann thermostat in the M2 "because the M2 is gone and I'm now converting an M4 for the track" and I have to say that I couldn't notice a big difference.

With the Motul V300 15w50 you can run 140 degrees without being at the oils limit. I do run a fair bit of more HP than you did with your old M2. Im just shy of 500hp and ca 700nm, with stage2 hybrid turbo.
So with the oil temps below 130 in 30 degrees hot weather is pretty ideal on the car imho.
Imagine if i detune the car to the same HP level as you had.. The engine would be running so much cooler, but it isnt really necessary at this point. I simply don't push as hard in that hot weather, because tire wear and brake wear is so much higher..  
Good choice on the M4.. Its definately a better platform than the "narrow" M2 body.. The longer wheel base makes it more stable for the schleife..  

vor 6 Stunden schrieb Burstrusher5000:

Cool conversion, I can sing a song to you about the N55 from the M2 when it comes to temperature :/ Do yourself a favor and get the complete D088 cooler package, and leave the air conditioning off while driving, saving around 10-15 degrees of oil and water on the track. Performance is always a thing with the engine, it just doesn't like more than 420-430 hp with humane torque.

What kind of cell is that?

Not really an issue.. I havent seen higher than 128 oil temps even at 30 degrees celsius on 25 minutes stints at SPA.. But gearbox cooling issues where a thing though, reaching higher than engine oil temps..
The M2CS bonnet suck the air really efficiently combined with a big oilcooler its really good keeping temps in check. The mosselmann i threw out, it sucks compared to the oem without the thermostat.  
I also dont have aircondition installed, so there is less load on the engine, which can be why i havent had engine overheating on track, combined with the cooling mods. But not everyone can drive comfortable in 50 degrees celsius inside the car.. I dont mind sweating.. Its cardio..  

Just buy the Porsche, throw in some pads, brake fluid and drive, drive drive.... the GT4 is very capable out of the box, much more than the m2c anyway.. 
The rabbit whole with the BMW will just get very, very deep.. 20K eur starts to get you moving with the BM, but i can already say this, chassis; 6k, Diff 5k, Controlarms/uniball 3-4k, Seats 2k, 4/6 point belts 1k, brake pads + brakelines 500eur, brake cooling et.. is an 50-60k M2C worth additional 20k upgrades? Or is the Gt4 80-100k more worth it to you?
Like you, I could buy the GT4 too..
But im not normal, i wanted a true 1 of 1 car and one step took another.. 
 

vor 23 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

That is the Monday in the Easter week! Maybe I will take a look if I have time   

Exactly! It depends.. Because ialso see that there is a track day on Nürburgring GP track on this day too.. So at this point i havent decided what to do yet..