Tank cap can stay in original place, you simply just cut it out of the bodywork of the kit. Or you install the FIA tank and have fuel filling from window area. A lot of tanks without FIA aproval can be scourced for less than 1000eur. The parts cost around 6000 eur in total if i remember correct. You can get them from both Flossmann or directly from BMW (Leebmann/Hubauer etc).

Yes, that is the symptons of overheated brakes. It's not that your brakes fail to work when they are overheated (except boiling brake fluid), but the longevity of the brake discs and pads are massively reduced. Even to a point where one trackday can kill a set of brake disc + pads. So cooling does work mainly for the longevity for our application as hobby racers, not so much for the performance, but its a different story though on racecars, going in circles for hours, here you will also gain or keep the same performance throughout the duration of the race.

to much heat brings excessive level of wear.

With or without suitable brake cooling?

Most just drive in MDM or Sport+ for that exact reason. Even with those on, you can still go a little sideways out of the corners..

+1

I fully understand your decision! I just wanted to warn you about the issues will be very close to what you already have with the Stinger. Obviously the M2 is an overall better track car than the stinger. But with the weight the M2 have, it is going to be a handfull to keep the temps of tires and brakes in order. Engine temp shouldnt be a problem, the S58 engine is very capable. So that will just keep going as you like. I think your limiting factor on the M2 because its that heavy is either going to be tires or brakes, simply because of the weight. Sometimes i do stints in my car, for up to 45-60 minutes on GP tracks.. And that is a handfull for my gearbox temp... So i sometimes need to cool down the gearbox for a couple of minutes by driving a little slow, and then i can hammer on again. On my car, i have optimized the cooling package to the most what is possible for my chassis. I will change the software for the waterpump so it has what is known as sport cooling (higher rpm on waterpump and cooling fan blowing too), that should keeps the temps on oil and water in check. Its used on the M240iR cup car too.

Even if the m2 is good out of the box - you are going to dump lots of money into it - brakes, brake cooling, brake fluid, rims + tires, and later on you are inevietly going to put in a 7000+eur suspension, because even an M suspension is like driving on marshmallows when pushing it. You can only do so much, with a stock suspension on a heavy container. If you are ready to take a hit on the financial side of a big devaluation of a new car for tracking it, then jump into that ocean and start swimming, because its not a porsche and it wont keep the value as such. Nordschleife is very baby friendly on the brakes too.. So if you get heat problems there.. Well, good luck on a GP track.

120-130kg springrates front and 160-170kg rear, would be suitable for the m235iR widebody! But, im curious to see if your dampers are too long on the rear. Are they 550mm long, measured from the middle of the bolthole to the topside of the mounting braket on the chassis? The body sits 40 or 50 mm higher than oem. which means you need a really low rideheight and that in return gives you very long travel of suspension, which makes some interesting toe changes on the rear.. Make sure when you get the car setup, that they check how much toe is changing, from normal rideheighe to full extension. From 2mm toe in to 3mm toe out on each wheel is not unheard off.. Just FYI. Also my bumpstops where cut shorter, because the car would hit them at compression. My pfeifer suspension, i asked for that to be made ca 40mm shorter than they normal do.

Hopefully you mean a discount on the f87 and not the g87.. That car (G87).. well.. Taste is subject.. Lets keep at that, so we dont hurt someones feelings..

So yet another small update on the suspension. After receiveing the pfeifer suspension, it was very clear that the damper was still too long for my application with the M235iR bodykit, the suspension compared to a normal KW CS should be build almost 40mm shorter, otherwise you get way to much wheeltravel which makes it harder to control the kinematic changes/bump steer on the rear axle. So right away, an email went in return, it was then very clear that they didnt know there is such a big difference on the bodywork heightwise compared to a normal 1er/2er body. But after explaining in very detail, why this and that, showcased differences in pictures, they could then, afterall see what the issue was. So with them and I being perfectionists, they took in the suspension and rebuild it.. I made sure they got something to chew on while doing so, and i made sure shipping was paid both ways, that was the least thing i could do, since they did the work on their shoulders. A+ for custumer service and for their timeline doing it so. So As shown on the pictures, 25mm was machined off the piston rod, and the mounting eye for the topmount was changed to a version that is 8mm shorter - so that combined = 33mm plus the adjustment thread on the lower part of the suspension, can be screwed in another 5-6mm, så that is now a damper, which physical is almost 40mm shorter, and with a damper with now 130mm travel, just like how touring cars also have. Propably 3-4cm bump travel from rideheight until bumpstop is coming into play - but there is only one way to test it out and see if it works or not..... If not, then we need to machine the damperbody too, and then there is nothing else that is possible to do. spring rates out of the box; front 140 and rear 150. but we have other spring on the shelf 120 front, 130 rear and 170 rear. So there is enough to play with. But seing alot of M cars with KW comp, they all run from kw with F140 and R150 set. at the ring, it seems a lot of companies like to run F140 and R180 springrates.. Christmas is around the corner too.. And hopefully the people who is around me, has listened to my best wishes, and placed DIY carbon production parts under the tree and Raspberry Pi computers.. Both things could make for interesting projects inside of the car Lets just say, i'm tired of having to use a phone everytime i enter the track or wants to datalog on the engine.....

So after dismantling the whole wiring loom and removed every system and wires that i didnt needed anymore, i encountered an issue when i first started up the car. The issue was, that the cooling fan was running on full speed right from when you started the car until shurting it off. The other issue was, that it wasnt possible to bleed the coolant system for air, through the gaspedal procedure. So for a few days ive been scratching my head, looking up fault codes and so on. But to be honest, its not easy to google and find an answer of "why is my cooling fan running on 100% after removal of heaterbox". But there was a small clue, the CDB804 code, stored in the DME, told me that the communication between the DME and IHKA was broken. I googled again and again.. and i literally found no one with the same problem. So i started with the obvious thing, check the relay for the fan, yup it still measured 75ohms and also clicked the right way when putting a 12v scource to it. Then i checked the fuses too. I found fuse 43 was not connected properly, but fter fixing the socket, nothing changed when i started the engine - fan still blowing 100%. So i went back to the code CDB804 and checked what other people had encountered with that code. I always found guys having issues with the Air condition system + controller.. so i thought to my self, wait a minut - lets try retrofitting the control module and the controller. And boom, problem solved, CDB804 code disappeared, the fan is not running at engine start up, and auto bleeding the cooling system now works. Great.. So lets see how we can connect the original controller to control the new 4" boat blower. Thats the next headache lol.. The pfeifer suspension will come with an update, soon too.. 😎 20231201_124259.mp4

Thank you 😎 i removed the rollbar/K-brace after installation of the clubsport cage, i didnt want to have more weight than necessary.

You can buy it from Burkhart Engineering. 969 eur.

Well, i don't think it sounds strange - a lot of people feel exactly what you do, and nothing is wrong with that. But you do miss out on some other really great tracks too, especially if you are chasing fun more than timed laps. Ofcourse most of us do time our laps, otherwise, how would we see any improvement in our driving?! I simply respect your choice, but i would highly recommend you to do a few other tracks too.

AST costs less than half, does the job perfectly fine. Maybe they can build on order in Chromosteel and you still save money. I have one from them (regular steel) and quality is really good.

You really need to come out of your comfort zone and try to do some different tracks too. You will be amazed of the difference in the layout, the different grip levels from track to track and so on. I drove in the same day at SPA first and then TF in the evening, that was really interesting, because i immediately drove the Nos faster than ever, carrying way more cornering speed too, so you can learn a lot from going to other tracks aswell. Bilsterberg also seems to be very popular. But NOS is special absolutely, and the community of true ring-freaks is just amazing! Ive met a lot good people who i became friends with to this day.

moin, looking forward to see the build progress of your car.. i did something similar build wise and more and a bit more radical.. you can check it out for some inspiration. ///Lars

Either that option, or a camper + trailer. But that would require B/E license or trailer license.

I like the NOS too.. But recently its become a clown show. Red/Yellow flags everyday. Some people just come there to fuck it all up for the majority with their seeking of attention for a 10 second shot on YouTube. And majority of those people are only there because of some youtubers. They bring too many of the cars & coffee type of people who drive like idiots around the place. In corona times, it was truly something special, the atmosphere, the genuinely nice people there where around was something that was really nice. But in the end, you drive in your car around corners as fast as possible, and there is definitely just as fun tracks around, which can give this thrill.. Europe is big and when you own a trailer and a van you can go to whatever racetrack you want to avoid that youtube fame.

I fully agree with you and @r20832 SPA is so much fun. Really a good track.. Imo more fun than Nordschleife.. Bonus info, there isnt many yellow flags there either.

Thats basically how i went into my build. Did 2 laps of NOS and 1 stint GP track, on "standart" car. The only track mods made prior to that was kw clubsport, NS2R tires, a diff, Mperformance brakes and 500hp.. A few months later i took the registration plate off the car, and then the madness started. Widebody build in France, Full Racecar suspension parts from BMW cup, cage, suspension setup, Wheels, Ap racing brakes, Software, Cooling packages, exhaust system and so on.. So at this point i stopped counting when the car reached a 100k eur incl. purchase of the car obviosly. Its doable to do it cheaper, but i have now gained experience with a lot of different parts on the platform.

So guys, Another small update. The KW clubsport has been upgraded for a new suspension. Reason for this, was that the Clubsport was at its very limit. Some of you already mentioned the bouncing of the car on my videos which was somewhat true - but i didnt lack grip even though the car would bounce a little it was primarily down to the comfort of driving the car. So for this ive been speaking with several enthusiast, friends and companies (obviosly not only 247) what my issue was and how to deal with them. One of them even replied in the phone "i know nothing about your shitty engine and can't help you" even though it was the suspension we spoked about Also my engine works really good, so i dont know where this came from lol Anyway. So with a lot of research done, i was ready to make the move, and the choice landed on a Pfeifer Suspension. Everything was made to order where Richard and I discussed the options so they would suit my wishes. What we ended up with here, is what i believe is the closest thing to a real competition suspension without the pricetag of a bling and exotic suspension but with a valving system that is durable for Nordschleife, GP tracks and even on the road. For my goal i'm sure it will fulfill my needs. I must say build quality is indeed really nice and the communcation + timeline was fullfilled to A+.. Just a fiy, if you already own a CS suspension and get it rebuild to a pfeifer it will cost you half the money in total - than a competition suspension from Nitron, KW, Moton, MCS and so on.. So think about it.. Do you want to spend the last 50% price for the maybe 10% extra performance? It wasnt worth it for me, because im not a pro racecar driver and im not chasing golden pineapples.

Normally around the ring for that car and Most BMW F series. spring rates 140 front and 180 rear. Damper setup 20%open Bump 40-50% open rebound.

Just go for it, buy it and tell us your experience. You could also consider Alcon - I think you should be able to find a kit in the UK. But there is no reason for people to snob around and say other kits are useless that is just dumb - especially if one has 0 experience with that exact product. I personally just went with the tried and tested by Schirmer, racing teams and so on and went with a PFC/AP setup.