Am 23.4.2024 um 7:36 AM schrieb FllSnd:

Yes, it really depends on the tire and the compound, you can't say that in general. But no matter what the outside temperature is, in the dry a semi-slick will always work better than a UHP. Of course, things look different in mixed conditions / rain AND low temperatures.

Absolutely, semi slick will always be THE option in dry condition, no matter the temp. You just need to find the right compound/tire model for the temperature you operate in.. Ideally, you would have 3 types of tires, UHP for the wet like ps4/4s cold/warm days, A soft semi like A052 for the colder days or damp surface and Direzza/CR-S for the hot summer days.  That would be my personal 3 tire combo, if i was rich enough  

vor 6 Stunden schrieb FllSnd:

I recently had great grip with the AR-1 when the outside temperature was 5 degrees in the dry, and warming up didn't take much longer than usual. I don't think there's a real temperature limit here, anything above zero should work fine.

So with AR1 being a softer compound, is really good in those temps. 
The CR-S fx, would take a lot of time to get heat into them.. Fx in Easter this year, i needed 2 full stints on Nürb GP to get the tires into a window where they started to be quite good.. Unfortunately, they lost pressure and temps, within 15minutes in the paddoc.. But the core still being warmish they just needed one lap to get into temperature and pressure again.. 

So for me, i have narrowed down, that the AR1 are mega in sub 15 degrees, above that, a different compound would be more optimal, if consistency is what you want.. Ar1, is really an easy tire to live with, if you arent driving longer stints at a time.. 

vor 8 Stunden schrieb Carsten:

@VikingPower

At the moment it is not planned yet and I first have to find a saddler who could do it.
In Celle, as with everything else, a huge problem...
If only next winter anyway.
Now I definitely want to drive the car first.

For sure.. drive drive drive and enjoy the capabillities of the car.. Just saw a fully stock one, with ps4s running sub 7.4x in sub optimal conditions.. So out of the box, the car is very capable.. 

vor 10 Minuten schrieb Carsten:

 

I love it too.
But I also have to honestly say that the interior can be loved and hated.
I think it's great to get in, how the car looks and that I feel like I'm getting into a racing car.
Nevertheless, you have to criticize the super cheap plastic in some places.
I'll have to think about it again and maybe have a saddler go over it with Alcantara.
But that is not yet certain.
Basically, I love the interior too.
I've already replaced the center armrest in the photo and it really makes a difference.

 

Yeah, try tostep into a VW Golf Mk8, im sure you will get ticks from touching anything in there.. Its the worst new spec car, cabin quality wise i ever been in.. That goes for Audi B9 too.. Simply too much hard scratching plastic.. The days of high quality interiors seems to be gone in normal class cars.. The M cars, do retain some refinement.. But hard plastic is my enemy.. Id rather had hard metal.. It still feels quality, and doesnt squeek after some times.. 
Having it polstered with Alcantara, would be a good ide,especially if you dont plan to strip the weight out.. I mena, if want to strip in 3 years time then 3 years with alcantara makes sense.. Even if it cost a few thousand of euros.. Alcantara will emmidiately make it look like a highspec car, which it already is. 

That interior.. Thats nice! 

an hour ago m2arcel wrote:

thanks for the interest, I actually forgot about the thread lol. I will take some pics when I visit the car next week.

Looking forward to that.. I always like to see crazy builds, its like seeing a progress but without spending money myself   I also think the forum needs more of the big builds shown, a lot can be learned from one build to another.. 

@m2arcel
Are you gonna show some pics of the mega project you went through? 

vor 18 Minuten schrieb dawenth:

I have the Noco NLP30 in my M135 with all the comfort-shit working - i just switched to the smallest possible Battery-size via bimmerlink.

That is interesting.. 8ah battery lol :P 
Can you share a pic of how it fits in the space? Definately an interesting option, especially with the low weight.. 

vor 36 Minuten schrieb Phil130i:

All this doesn't really matter as ling as you don't want run all your electrical consumers while the engine is off.

Ah just states the capacity of the battery. Eg. 80A x 1 hour = 80Ah or 40Amps x 2 hours = 80Ah and so on..  When the engine is running the alternator powers all the electrical consumers.

I run a 12,5Ah battery and for me thats enough capacity. I don't have any unnecessary electrical consumers that I use when the engine is off so no worry about he small capacity.

Interesting! I will try to see if i can find out if there are any way to see/calculate how much Amp/Watts starter motor + what diverse electronic modules consumes when you go into the car and wants to start it. I can probably not find anything, but running a 20ah battery is possible would probably be more than i really need. 

58 minutes ago racy_estate wrote:

You need to modify the cars software with ISTA or a different system that allows you to switch the battery size to the smallest one. With this procedure the new battery is recognized correctly. 
Can't tell you if the electronics makes a difference in terms of cell chemistry. There are different statements. But I need to ask: What's the reason that you don't go with a small size AGM battery? Mostly this is a very cost effective method. And I can tell you, that the cranking amps of most 20-30Ah batteries are sufficient for nearly every motor. 

I also have done this, when registered the battery i mounted 1 year ago though not changing the size, since it was the same. 
AGM even at 20amps are just too heavy to make sense for a weight upgrade. Im at the point, where the car could be very close to a sub 1300kg half tank. (1365kg) with just a bit more than half a tank. So the more waight saving the better. Lithiumnext RACE40 weighs 2.6kgs.. But is not IBS optimized. Their Track60 are IBS compatible and weighs 4kg dead. So that is a 18kg weight saving. Allthough in the wrong end of the car, but then i must just remove more in the front 

Powder coating the cage to what ever color you desire, shouldnt be too expensive.. But if you want it pretty invincible black would be fine.. I have one in black, but on my car, im going with black and white details for the yas marina blue color.. So my advice for you would be, find the color scheme you want to use on your black car, then make it throughout the whole build.. In my opinion, that is the most desireble thing to do.. Or just make it batman, black on black.. 
 

This morning the work van battery was  dead. The BMW and the T5 share exactly the same battery.. So naturally im going to replace VW T5 battery with the one from the BMW, and now wants to install a Lithium one in the BMW. 

A few questions to that, 
How low on Ah can i go with the new lithium battery? In a normal BMW m135i they use 80ah AGM battery
. 
As most of you already know, i dont have aircondition, heated seats, Idrive + soundsystem, heater matrix or anything niceness in the car. 
What i do have is Electric windows, 4 amp blower fan for interior cooling, 3 amp raspberry pi.. 

The BMW also have IBS (intelligent Battery Sensor).
As I understand, its not possible to remove this system so i would have to replace with a lithium battery that is made for IBS? 

-3.7 degree camber front 
-2.5 degree camper rear
1mm toe OUT front each corner. 
1.5mm toe in rear each corner works really really well on my car. 
I don't find it too hard on the inside shoulders of the fronts.. Braking performance is really good too.. 

I personally like the fast turn in behavior, and then midcorner, less agressive steering dure to less angle on the outside side.. For trail braking this works really good and you can rotate the car nicely i slow corners, without snapping the rear.. At least, that how i like the setup. With 1.5mm toe in on the rear, i dont find the rear too lazy as it is with 2mm.. 

vor 7 Stunden schrieb M4ler:

Alos I'll tell you how it is, the G series is significantly faster than an F series, even if the cars are heavier.
BUT the most important thing in cars to make you fast is the tires.
If you throw a CupR on a car like that, it's simply a different house number.... There are some who, for example, with F series cars and a Direzza in 18 inches, never drove under 7:04 on the Nordschleife... and then they have one Put CupR on it and were straight over 10!!! Seconds faster... I see the biggest advantage in the fact that the G series can run with 19 inches and can therefore drive the CUPR...

Sulfurd already drove 6:55 with Schirmer's M4 and that was only possible thanks to Cup R...

 

Cristian Vidal did 6.55 in a full interior F80 600ps but with Hoosier Dot E slicks on 18".. Both the CupR and the Hoosier are real cheater tires  So you are completely right, the tires do the biggest difference on an already capable car! 

Nice, good to see that Carsten! Mega color for the M2! Big congratulations on the purchase!

Super cool project! Can't wait to see the result! 
How far do you plan to go with the project? 
Would love to see a very weight optimized G87..
I myself have removed nearly 200kgs from my 1series. Curb weight with half a tank is now around 1365kgs.. 
Would it be possible to remove 250kgs on the g87? Maybe even 300 kg if you have very deep pockets and desire to do so?
Would be very cool to see a G87 sub 1500kg with half a tank. I think it would be able for a sub 6.53 lap on the ring with a little more power than stock.  

I will just use the 50/50 mixture.. I dont really have issues with temperatures.. But Just wanted to know if the Motul was more than just a placebo or could be used standalone. But after Phil's experiences, i'm just gonna pour in the normal coolant mixture as ive always used 

vor 2 Stunden schrieb Phil130i:

 

Its crazy how fast things can go wrong. The waterpump was changed though, in the winter for the 2023 season. So everything there is all "new".. But having the cooling system to fail seems to be very common on the BMW's.. especially the ones with eletric driven coolant pump.. 

Yes, i'm fully with you in that regard..  We can't ensure 100% that things won't have a bad outcome for others if shit happens on our own cars, but atleast we can try to make our cars + components as reliable and safe as possible.
Which has been my mantra for the whole car throughout the years.. But some things you just can't be ready for.. Fx a broken coolant pump, oilsump being punched a hole into or what elsen in that regard.. Broken engine etc.. I think most of us regular track day folks, have this mindset.. 

Just realised the G11 im speaking about is indeed G48.. The G11 spec is VAG spec, but its is something that my local BMW dealer also call their OEM coolant.. So sorry for the confusion, it is indeed G48 i must search and buy for my car. 

vor 6 Minuten schrieb Mxwld:

Ich mische schon seit Jahren 75% Wasser mit 25% Antifreeze G48 in meinem Mini (Track only). Bisher nie Probleme gehabt und gefühlt wurde die Kühlleistung etwas besser. Ist aber immer schwer Messbar, finde ich.

Von den MoCool / Waterwetter etc. Additiven hört man aber generell immer gute Sachen. Glaube aber, dass der Effekt bei Oldtimern mit klassischen Thermostaten besser ist als bei den modernen Kisten.
 

So what is the main difference between G48 and G11? Is G11 just a new spec of coolant for BMW? 
I tried googling this, but have not been lucky to scource the right information between them.. 

vor 1 Minute schrieb Phil130i:

 

Makes fully sense! And i'm going to use demineralised water anyway, so corrosion wont be an issue either. 
The only thing that worries me a bit, if i should have another leak of coolant.. Would love to have some that wasnt as slippery/oily... But i guess, its a game between safety for other cars and safety for the components on our cars.
Normally im on the top of my game looking my car through before every trackday.. But shit can happen, and it did last time I was around the track, luckily it was so minor, that the coolant was drying up in the engine bay before it could come out.. Had to top up around 2 litres for 800kms trackdriving and around 200km road driving, so the useage was very minor. 
  

vor 31 Minuten schrieb Phil130i:

Personally I'd go with option 1.

I ran 25% G48 and 5% Mocool a few years back and I'm pretty sure my water pump died prematurely because of the low concentration of antifreeze. Now I'm running the recommended 50/50 mix of G48 and water and didn't see any difference in temperature on track.

Mocool might work but for me it didn't make any difference.

That's what i was a bit worried about too with 5% dilution in 95% water..
Ive always driven with 50/50 mix of coolant and coolant temps are not really an issue. But as I just saw that there was some additive that might would be better for lubrication and overall performance of the cooling system i was starting to think about using it.. But looking through Motuls Technical datasheet, doesnt really tell if its just a "placebo" product.. 
I will continue using the G11 coolant in the 50/50 mix..

Thanks for sharing your experience with it.  

vor 1 Minute schrieb Boesi:

I also like DO88 very much. 
My water heat exchanger for intercooling and my engine oil cooler are also from DO88. 
The coolers are made in a very good quality. 

 

Yes, i had no issues with them other than this time around.. But they said it at happened a few times, and they wanted to bring mea product worth their name.. So i can't fault them.. I was considering going back to OEM.. But reached out,and asked if they had issues before and then they immediately met me in eye sight, prompted me a generous discount and shipped the cooler the same day! So service and products is really nothing that can be said anything bad about.. 

Had a small leak in the coolant system, sprying onto my chargepipe.. Found the culprit only when the engine was cold.. Pressurised the system when HOT, and after 20min pressure test 0.2 bar pressure drop.. This indicated that it was only the pressure buildup releasing as the coolant went down in temperature.. Well after the radiator was fully cooled down, i tried pressure testing and then this showed up. 
New cooler allready on its way and Huge discount from the supplier.. Absolutely phenomenal..  Radiator was bought in 2021 and done thousands of kilometres mostly on track. Customer service from Do88 is A++.. They didnt need to give me a discount but they did, without me asking. Great service! 

I'm wondering what would bethe best option cooling wise?

Option 1 : Run G11 coolant mixed 50/50 with water. 
Option 2: Run Motul Mocool mixed only with water 5% Mocool with 95% water. 
Option 3: Run G11 Coolant mixed 50/50 with water, but with suitable 5% Mocool too? 

Could the Mocool works as a stand alone, without G11 coolant? Car will never be driven in below freezing temps anyway.. But would maybe be started up, in the mornings when you have maybe +5 degrees... Or had overnight temps just around 0degrees.. Water doesnt really freeze in 0 degrees in pressurized system if i remember correct.