15 hours ago CZ4A wrote:

We are looking for an EVERYDAY tire. Do you run a performance tire on your daily basis? So not me...

I drove Nankang NS2R daily for years.. Horrible tire for performance on track, but it last very long and is consistent, but just very slow..  Good on the road if you can live with it being a little sketchy on wet surface and the noise. 

Update on the suspension; 

Last week we received the suspension from Pfeifer. 
After 4 months of development, sending parts, mainly the rear assembly back and forth between each other for several times, we finally managed to meet our goal.
Its not a secret that the manufacture was a litle out of comfortable waters, but that goes for our side too. Both parties had to learn something new.

From start to finish;
We reached out to pfeifer and explained what we wanted, what we currently was looking at from the competiters. We had some wishes to what we wanted, because knowing from experience that an off the shelve suspension won't fit the cup cars body and the direction we are going with the car. You could go directly and buy a racing suspension.
But then the prices are also in a different league and that does not come without issues either.
Hence why a guy i know, sent his car directly to KW, for them to develop the exact suspension for his car. You don't get that for baby money.  

So to make it very simple, we wanted a rear suspension very close to the racing suspension, a true coilover setup. Because down the road, we can then throw the stock lower control arm into the bin and use the one from the cup car, to have the rearend fully uniball setup. 

This bought some problems into play though;
The top mount would extend the full suspension about 30mm, so that meant, when the damperbodies had the exact same overall length as the KW clubsport suspension, it would lose 30mm of suspension travel. So after mounting one side, we lowered the car, took the car out in the driveway to turn it around, and then we realised that the suspension was riding directly on the bumpstop.
OK, now what.. 
So a message to pfeifer, and then after some discussion, they advised, to use a topmount who was a little shorter, and then we could cut the pistontravel down by 25mm. So instead of having a total of 150mm bumptravel we ended op with 125mm. 
We agreed but had a feeling that it wasnt sufficient. Well afterall, they are the experts, so we rolled with their advice. (at this point we still believed they had experience with the m240i cupcar). 

Just before christmas, we received the 1st revision of the suspension. We did our measurements on the table. Everything looked okay, we was very close to have the same dimension as the racing suspension. But there was a feeling it wasnt going to work, more on that later.
On the table, we saw around 7cm's of full bumptravel with the stock bumpstop at full extension.
Oh well, easy fix, we removed 16mm of the bumpstops and removed the plastic shim-ring underneeth it. That way, we gained about 20mm extra bumptravel. So ca. 9cms of bumptravel, and now a suspension that was about 40mm shorter than normal CS suspension.
 Nevertheless, we mounted the suspension. The most amount of bumptravel we had available with this setup, was 22mm but at a rideheight 1cm higher than normal, to make room for cornerweight adjustments. 
Then we started comparing with the CS damper. Allright, that had 36mm of bumptravel available, and we used 34mm of it. So it was very clear that sub 20mm wasnt going to cut it. 

Another email, and a long phonecall was done. At this point, it was just a week before Christmas, and we knew nothing was going to be done until after New Year.
To make it short, we then told pfeifer exactly what we wanted from the 2nd revision.
We wanted this exact damperbody length, we wanted this exact piston travel, and we wanted this exact length of the whole assembly.
Our goals was met! And that is absolutely crucial, otherwise the suspension would'nt have been optimal for this car. 

Through all this, i can only say, that the process was long, but it has been very fair.
Both sides, gave their best to make each other happy. And from our side, we are satisfied with the outcome. 

Yesterday, we went out in the car, a very short drive. But on some very rough country roads, with potholes and rough tarmac. The dampers works really well and fare really compliant. Obviously needs to adjust the settings and have the car aligned again. But out of the box, it feels miles better than the CS 2 way, which wasnt compliant at all.


 

Just got this in my feed. Absolutely good sounding S55.. And wait... A 8hp conversion with a clutch pedal? These guys are proper tuningheads.
If you want to skip all the technical thing, then around the 20min mark is where should skip to. 

vor 49 Minuten schrieb FllSnd:

Looking good. As soon as my current set of AR-1 is finished I'd like to try the CR-S. Are you an official seller or where did you get them from?

Me too, i still have about 50% tread left on the AR1. 

I'm not an official seller or in any form close to that, but as part of my small business i also supply parts for cars.
Since i don't have a warehouse i can keep cost a bit down. But this set i have available are at my place though. So there is a relative short lead time on this set. 

Crazy looking sidewall too. Almost like a slick.

Nankang CR-S are available also with E marking. 
Here's some measurements. 
This set can be sold for 1550eur incl shipping to DE.  

That sounds interesting.. Lets see if it wants to pair with a touch screen through that. 

vor 14 Minuten schrieb racy_estate:

Please no TW discussion. I mean its literally a competition of "who is releasing the best 200TW tire which is no 200TW tire, but if it performs better than another 200TW tire (which is actually a 200TW tire!!!), we will sell a lot of it" .

 No worries, just playing.. Everyone knows that the CR-S isnt a UHP  

Some say Nankang CR-S is a UHP tire, because of the 200tw.
Source - Nankang.

vor 5 Minuten schrieb wanderschikanentv:

The power supply looks good. There are even variants with up to 4 USB ports, so that you can also integrate charging sockets. The power supply can also be easily connected using a power tap with a fuse in the fuse box.

Do you also have an accelerometer on your Raspberry?

Yes, you can choose what you want for what you need. Its very cool it is so easy to build for what you need. 
- No i have not build that extension into it.
Because i plan to use a Racebox Mini connected to the Pi through Bluetooth connection and the Racebox Mini have integrated accelerometer, so that should in theory work. But i still have to test everything, before i really know if it works as intended.  

vor 6 Stunden schrieb wanderschikanentv:

Das klingt nach einer guten Lösung. Dann habe ich meine Laptimer-Maps mit OBD2-Anzeigen, und könnte auch noch eine Wifi-Rückfahrkamera mit Android-App anschließen.

Wie hast Du die Stromversorgung gelöst? Ich brauche ja einen 12V auf 5V Converter. Mein Auto hat Dauerstrom am Zigarettenanzünder, und es wäre für mich OK, wenn ich den Raspi mit einem Schalter an- und ausschalten könnte. Möchte ich den Raspi aber mal während einer Pause mit abgestelltem Motor anlassen und dann den Motor starten, bricht beim Startvorgang die 12V-Spannung etwas zusammen. Verkraftet so ein Converter das, so dass der Raspi während des Startvorgangs sauber seine 5V kriegt? Zum Vergleich, schließe ich eine Gopro ohne Akku drin an einen USB-Lader im Zigarettenanzünder, dann geht die Gopro während des Motorstarts aus, weil eben kurzfristig die Spannung runter geht.

Yes, but regarding the reverse camera, i'm not sure how that would work, but i havent searched for that information either, so i guess you have more knowledge on that subject. 

For the power supply inside the car, i have this one ; https://www.berrybase.de/step-down-netzteilmodul-4-38v-1-25-36v/5a-mit-schraubklemmen?c=349

You can't use the cigaret power, because that only supply 2.4AMP, and this is not enough to power up the raspberry. I already tried something like that with the normal charging adapters that follows when you buy a smartphone.

So to shut down the Raspberry pi, isn't as simple. You need to have a flip switch on the negative terminal to cut power to the Raspberry. But you also need a toggle switch to tell the OS to shut down or if that is build into the OS like it is on Android, you can just use that.
Its really not the perfect unit (Raspberry Pi), but if you can work around how it works, i would say that it is very cool smart little thing.    

vor 2 Stunden schrieb wanderschikanentv:

I didn't actually want a payware solution.

This is exactly the video that is in my first post. The user uses MS Tunerstudio, but according to my research it is not suitable for general OBD2, but only for Megasquirt ECUs.

 

I don't know yet whether it will work with the Raspberry, but I have already built a 10Hz BonoGPS myself:  https://github.com/renatobo/bonogps  . The receiver works smoothly with Racechrono and Harry's Laptimer on Android phones!

 

My current idea is to use Crankshaft NG on the Raspberry ( https://getcrankshaft.com/ ) and then use the Raspberry as an Android Auto Hub and run Racechrono or Torque Pro on it, for example. Alternatively, run the Raspberry with LineageOS and then add one of these apps to it. What I like about the solution with Crankshaft NG is that I could then, for example, retrofit a rear-view camera on the car.

Or I'll buy something like this straight away: https://www.kaufland.de/product/472951789/?kwd&source=pla&sid=46293435&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA75itBhA6EiwAkho9e1U_4t83o7FjcXR0pbc6WRb1QrrY58VpRkvdpxGIPWqIakS vV_psYRoCz5YQAvD_BwE and butcher it to integrate it into the car with a customized housing. There is also a ready-made retrofit solution for my car, but a 10.25 inch screen on top of the dashboard is really too much for me with the small windshield of my E86, not to mention the price:  https://www.ebay.de/itm /333388717907?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338353465&toolid=20006&customid=s%3AGS%3Bpt%3A0%3Bd%3AD%3Bsi%3A100%3Bct%3A%3Bad%3A%3Bii %3A333388717907%3Bpr %3A%3Bcd%3A%3Bgc%3ACjwKCAiA75itBhA6EiwAkho9e4Tb57_pxmCG45Fzkx88beXofEperMCDE7zGydnb2fF76c5oXh4H7BoC10MQAvD_BwE

Yes, it was exactly the same as the video, i just didnt know if you found the website too. :-)
Allright, let me check up on that DIY on the 10hz gps. Sounds just very interesting. 

The Crankshaft NG program looks also interesting especially for a street car. Personally i wanted a solution without having to use the phone, since i always forget to connect before heading out to the track. 
So i build my setup with LineOS Android from konstakang, Then added NikkGapps For having google play store on the device. So i have downloaded my most used program to that device, Google Maps, MHD tuning, and RaceChrono Pro. I will run MHD datalogging together with the Racechrono while on track. I just need to make adjustments, so these programs are started up when turning on the Raspberry. I will probably do some interior work in a few weeks time, then i can post some photos of my setup. 

If i where you, i would think about how you can integrate either the raspberry diy system into your car or just simply buy a cheap Android tablet.
I believe with the options you are sharing, you are limited to only android auto. If i read it correct, you can't install any operating system on those, and then i guess you can't have any laptiming running on the screen either.  

I guess if the guy wanted to build something himself, i guess it because he can't justify spending thousands of euroes on such a project.
Otherwise, i would belive he would just buy the AiM unit, en enjoy that thing, like a lot of other guys do. 
 
My raspberry setup incl touchscreen has so far been less than 200euros, but i still need a GPS receiver,which should cost almost the same as the unit itself.

I won't use it as a dash, like OP wants, i simply don't believe that the raspberry has enough power to run live dash, laptiming and engine logging at the same time and have screen space enough to show you everything either. 
But what can you expect from such a cheap device anyway. 

True, but why offer something that's based on a DIY thing, which is nearly as pricey as an AiM unit? 
I try to find the sense in that, nothing else.

@hiking chicanery tvi think you find this link usefull.. 

https://www.beavismotorsport.com/RaspberryPiDash/

vor 38 Minuten schrieb QL-Performance:

These also offer retrofit options:

https://www.theonegauge.com/

If you count in the total price of one of their unit's, 1000dollars, plus 19%vat and shipping maybe another 80 dollars = 1270 dollars or ca. 1170eurs. 
You can have an AiM MXS 1.3 strada for 1450euro. 

At this point i dont know exactly what else is required to run one or the other.
But i would personally in that price point, go with the AiM. 

I already build an Raspberry Pi4, running a 10inch touchscreen, in a setup for engine parameters and laptiming running simoultaniously.
I just need to finish up the interior bits, before installing it and hardwire it into the power scource of the car. I already looked into making it into a dash, but to be fair its not the best unit for that on such a new car as the F series. For that, i would go the AiM route or something similar that is robust enough that application.

@wanderschikanentvIm looking forward to see how you set up your Pi and how it works in your car.  

vor 15 Stunden schrieb Fox906bg:

Going with a single pipe would be worse in terms of backpressure, because you have to push the same amount of exhaust gases through one smaller diameter. Dual pipes can cope with a lot more exhaust gas, because the flow is divided by two.

It's really not that big of a difference, we are talking 0.2inch in difference that's equal to 5mm. Let's see how that influence flow and back pressure.

For two 2.5" pipes:
Area_total, 2 pipes = 2 * (π * (2.5)^2 / 4)
Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * (π * 6.25 / 4)
Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * (19.635 / 4)
Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 2 * 4.90875
Area_total, 2 pipes ≈ 9.8175 square inches

For a single 3.5" pipe :
Area_single pipe = (π * (3.5)^2 / 4)
Area_single pipe ≈ (π * 12.25 / 4)
Area_single pipe ≈ 38,485 / 4
Area_single pipe ≈ 9,621 square inches

So with these numbers we now know the pipe difference.
I've used this date for the formula;

Engine Power (P_engine): 450 hp (approximately 335175 W)
Mass Flow Rate (m_dot) from MAF sensor: 360 kg/s
Temperature of Exhaust Gases (T): Average between 700 and 900 degrees Celsius (873 K)
Gas Constant (R ): 0.287 kJ/(kg K) (0.287 × 10^3 J/(kg K))

For Two 2.5" Pipes:
Combined Cross-sectional Area (A_{2.5 inch, total}):
A_{2.5 inch, total} ≈ 9.817
Calculate Temperature (T) in Kelvin:
T_{min} = 973.15 K (for 700°C)
T_{max} = 1173.15 K (for 900°C)
Calculate Mass Flow Rate (m_{dot}):
m_{dot} ≈ 25.987 (for T_{min})
m_{dot} ≈ 24.086 (for T_{max})
Calculate Pressure Difference (Delta P_{2.5 inch}):
Delta P_{2.5 inch} ≈ 15718.497 (for T_{min})
Delta P_{2.5 inch} ≈ 14495.282 (for T_{max})
Calculate Airflow Rate (Q_{2.5 inch}):
Q_{2.5 inch} ≈ 4.798 (for T_{min})
Q_{2.5 inch} ≈ 4.670 (for T_{max})
Calculate Backpressure (Backpressure_{2.5 inch}):
Backpressure_{2.5 inch} ≈ 0.021 (for T_{min})
Backpressure_{2.5 inch} ≈ 0.020 (for T_{max})

For a Single 3.5" Pipe:
Calculate Cross-sectional Area (A_{3.5 inch}):
A_{3.5 inch} ≈ 9.621
Calculate Mass Flow Rate (m_{dot}):
m_{dot} ≈ 25.987 (for T_{min} )
m_{dot} ≈ 24.086 (for T_{max})
Calculate Pressure Difference (Delta P_{3.5 inch}):
Delta P_{3.5 inch} ≈ 6289.248 (for T_{min})
Delta P_{3.5 inch} ≈ 5797.641 ( for T_max)
Calculate Airflow Rate (Q_3.5 inch):
Q_3.5 inch ≈ 3.580 (for T_min)
Q_3.5 inch ≈ 3.486 (for T_max)
Calculate Backpressure (Backpressure_ 3.5 inch}):
Backpressure_{3.5 inch} ≈ 0.198 ( for T_{min})
Backpressure_{3.5 inch} ≈ 0.183 (for T_{max})

The backpressure is influenced by various factors, including the total cross-sectional area, temperature, and mass flow rate.
In the case of the two 2.5" pipes, while the combined cross-sectional area is larger, the mass flow rate (which depends on engine power, temperature, etc.) and the specific design of the system also play crucial roles. The higher mass flow rate and the design of splitting the flow into two pipes can contribute to higher backpressure despite the larger total cross-sectional area.

So with that in mind, I will now show 2 systems from Active Autowerks, 
The reason for this, is I would look at them, and think about what design from a visual stand point, would most likely be optimal for flow. To me, the less bends and direction changes in the whole system is better for flow. BUT, I can't say if there really is a difference between the 2 pipes in the EL configuration, I don't have access to that information. But from a visual standpoint, i think i will induce more backpressure, than the pipe next to it, so one turbo would see a greater amount of force.  
 

image_cb3ce37d-0aa4-419e-baca-f5e07d06ef5d_1024x1024.webp

M2CEL2_2048x_0afc20ef-130a-486a-8e59-08d2f5c6b60b_1024x1024.webp

2 hours ago Fox906bg wrote:

@VikingPower
But also most of the EL exhausts have bigger diameters, fewer dampers and are quite straight piped with open flaps.
Therefore I would say, backpressure is not a problem, even if there are a few more direction changes.

True. But as this point, we can only speculate because we have not any measurements to rely on. 
But from a visual stand point of the design, i would personally go with a single midpipe, and preferable single all the way to the back, and mounted to a custom exhaust silencer. I would from a best guess, thnk that could be possible in germany too? as long the silencer has an CE/ECE approval? Or how do you go about with custom exhaust, like Inkedcustom makes?  

vor 3 Minuten schrieb matt:

This one sounds mostly "good" because of the M-Performance Titan exhaust system. Don't think the downpipes make that much of a difference there, the titan exhaust by itself is already very loud (too loud in my opinion) and has a distinctive raspy, metallic sound to it.

Ah okay, i didnt know it makde such a big difference, on the N55 its not doing much, atleast not on the non M car. But the cat does a lot to the sound. 
Its hard to have good flowing exhaust and a good sound with the s55. I see many of the EL pipes has a million direction changes, that must be building some backpressure, but i don't know.  The most ideal would to be have a car not too loud and still have it sound exceptionally good. 

vor 27 Minuten schrieb No.1566:

Ich möchte noch ergänzen, dass der M2, egal ob N55 oder S55, von unten identisch zu M3/M4 ist und somit nicht ansatzweise mit den „M“ Fahrzeugen mit 3 stellen hinterm M zu vergleichen ist. 
Ein M ist mehr als nur ein anderer Motor. 
 

I fully agree! 
Which is also why the fake "M" handles like shit - compared, to a real M car. But it can be fixed, using M parts or motorsport parts adjusted accordingly. 

vor 2 Stunden schrieb Micha#E46:

Hey everyone, 

I'm currently looking for a new project. Unfortunately still pretty undecided. I'm currently ready to buy an M235i again. As an alternative, I have an E92 335i with an N55 engine on my list. 
 

With the M235i, the N55 has the well-known problem with the oil pan. There is the possibility of converting the oil pan like on the M2 with N55 engine. 
 

Does anyone happen to know whether the parts also fit plug and play on the N55 from the E92 335i? 
 

Looking forward to your answers. 
 

Greeting, 

Micah. 

 

 

 

 

Here is the differences between them all.
The M2 n55 isnt much different to ANY of the other N55's. But there is a few. The strongest most reliable N55 engine are the EWG ones, they also produce more power and runs overall better than the old PWG. Easier to tune, easier to keep in the right range for knock control/cylinder timing correction. 

I have driven more than 70000kms total with the N55 engine over the last 4.5 years. But the car was'nt driven for 1 year because it went into upgrade mode. 
Its not as bad an engine as some would think.
You just have to know how to work around the engine, ive learned it the hard way, when i spun the engine on the M135i because of not installing the s55 oilpump system, running a 265/295 tire setup. Even with a slush baffle in the sump, it obviously wasnt enough to keep the oil at the right location in the sump. 

I now run the M2 N55 engine, which has the S55 oilsystem from factory, after more than 4000kms on track only, theres not been any problem at all. 

With a non M car running the m2 sump/engine, you will need to shim the left engine bracket a little, otherwise it will touch the subframe. 

 

vor 1 Stunde schrieb Gany:

I mean less then 10 liters would be really great, I was just so pedantic, as I would love to reach anything under 10 liters and it would seem achieveable if others reach that, too.

 

Is definately possible with the VW T5 with the combi of that gearbox and that low power output, to achieve some decent economy. I wouldnt suspect its different with the model you are looking on. But i personally wouldn't take an 1.6 litre engine for towing. 
I will admit, that i would love to either have the 6speed or the dsg model, and then a 140hp, but the last part is easy to work out, since the 114ps engine is the same as the 140ps.
But its totally doable running as it is, in the German mountains.

I will report back, how the setup will work in the Alps. I'm already slowly warming the wife up, to either drive the van+trailer and me driving the track car in behind Or vice versa.. What ever she prefers to do. I think she will take the 1er.. She loves to drive it.. But she won't admit that, but i have seen her chuckle silently while driving that car.  

vor 4 Stunden schrieb Gany:

Mate, you are twisting the numbers they way you need them. Yes, if you get 700 km of distance with 65 litres of fuel, you get 10,7 km per L, that is 9,3 L/100km of fuel. If you use 70 Litres, your fuel gauge should display more an eighth. But to be fair I do not think anybody here cares about that too much.

The camping van life I can agree on though and your timetable looks also quite convenient for me. I might just do it the same way.

I think we speak through each other. I didnt really write i was having a quarter tank left. I wrote i barely had that, so that means less than a quarter tank.
But i also wrote that i used 10-11 liter in my first writing, and what i meant here, was km/l. But that was a mistake i didn't see until now. 
Obviously nobody cares about 1litre plus minus unless you drive a 18metres truck and tow your car in the trailer of that. 

The camping part makes it easier, and cheaper if you care about that. But most importantly you ALWAYS have a car to drive home, if you put the track car on the roof, in the fence or similar. 

vor 11 Stunden schrieb Gany:

Thanks for the info! Kinda helps as our car stats are around the same numbers. Around 65 liters consumption for that distance, seem to be less than 10-11 liters? Except if you live really close to the border. Or am I missing something? Sorry, I can't be a real know-it-all sometimes.

65 litres divided by 700kms = 10.7km/l.
I would probably have spent around 70litres, so technically 10litres pr. 100km, because its not sitting fully at the quarter tank mark, just slightly below. In normal day to day, the Van runs about 13-15km/l its pretty good imo, taken into account its a 5 speed low geared car. 120kmh=2600rpm ish.   

I have exactly 700km from my house to Nürburg. I live around 10kms from the German border so i tend to drive around 4AM, and then i "land" in Nürburg around noon. By then I have a few hours to pack out, put the van into camper mode, eat something, relax maybe take a nap and then make everything ready for the TF session starting around 5pm. This has been my goto protocol the whole 2023 season and will continue to do so in the future. 

I can also highly recommend camp out in the van, buy a chemical toilet, bring small gas broiler and grill, plus water containers, and then the utillities needed for showering, dishwashing and obviously coffee making  If you go by ikea, you can buy a 80x200 mattres or wider if you prefer, make a frame out of wood, you can take in and out after your needs, and maybe build a small table you can cook on inside, if weather is bad and have a place to put the laptop on when netflix and chill when its raining 
 

vor 27 Minuten schrieb murdock:

@Fox906bgI agree with you that you learn “better” on slower cars. It's best to rent a kart, then a racing kart (in various gradations). At an advanced age I would ALWAYS recommend a coach/coaching, ideally with the same coach. This is a much better investment than in renovations. If you've reached your limit, you can still rebuild. What of course makes sense in advance is to make the brakes durable and, if necessary, the chassis/camber due to wear.

 

I'm all in for the coaching part. But its definately not everyone who gain much from it. A regular track go'er i know off, still hasnt been able to go sub 8, or similar. He has done just about 100 laps in 23 and is sitting in a total of around 200 laps, spent a lot of money on coaching too.. Yet he is slower than me. Same car model. But definately different.. 
And then on the other hands, there is a lot of guys i personally know, who is running sub 7.4x in the same car. but they have all over 500 laps and are very regular goer to NOS. Only one of them is not a widebody :-D
With the right car from the get go, you can be really fast. But if you start out with a poop car.. You have to rework it.. In Carstens case, he starts out on a good starting point. The M cars just handle differently from factory than non M. Even the basic VW GTI's, megane iv rs-trophy, are all very good straight out of the box. But i dont know what BMW did with the F20/F21.. 
I guess most people remember Jeremy Clarkson on Top Gear in 2013/2014 got overtaken by the tail of that M135i in a straight line race - against the VW Golf 7 GTI..