vor 5 Minuten schrieb Boesi:

Yes Sir, that is what I mean. Than you can generate much more Speed uphill the Kemel. That saves you i think at least 2 -3 Sec.

Nice! 
So lets not use Carstens thread anymore with this, it got a bit out of hand..  But maybe it is some value for others too.. 

2 hours ago Boesi wrote:

@VikingPower

For your support, when I come out of Stavelot then the first left at Blanchimont goes full speed at around 220kmh then a little bit of gas and the second left at 190-200kmh and then let the car drift out to the right until the curp because the run-off zone is asphalt if you are too fast.
Then a spot in front of it, you move the Rivage a little too far in for my taste. I would let it drift from much further out to the apex and back out again.
And then very importantly, you lose too much speed down in the Eau Rouge. The best way is to go down to the far left over the Curp and then, once you're in the valley, immediately go straight back up to the right at full throttle. At the top you can do around 180 kmh and if things go well 190kmh. Then you take a lot of speed with you up the uphill Kemel and that will save you a lot of time. At the end of the Kemel I can do 250-260kmh if things go well.
This isn't meant to patronize, but to help you get to the right points

Excellent, I will keep this information in the back of my head! I can definitely see your point in the Eau Rouge section, I should be far more to the left until the end of the rumble stripe, and then turn into the uphill section. That should in theory also make the corner more "straight".. 

@CarstenSorry for hijacking your thread.. 

vor einer Stunde schrieb Seventyeight:

I think you mean Blanchimont?
 

First I don't know why you downshift in the full throttle lefthander before Blanchimont, maybe I missheard it?
Blanchimont you can go more to the right side, carry more speed and use the run-off area even more.

I never did Spa with a road car and semi-slicks so maybe I'm a bit overconfident about the grip.
I'm used to slicks and it's just a full throttle section up to TCR cars and a big balls section in a Porsche Cup Car.

BUT you have some space there and if something goes wrong you just open the steering and go wide, never try to catch the car with aggression there!

 

Yes, Blanchimont was the "2 corners before bus stop". 
So the video recorded here, was from my 2nd stint there, if i remember correct - so i was still trying to figure out which gear, speeds and thing like that i needed to be in. 

On stint 3 and 4 i did use more of the run off area, but like i wrote in the post above, i felt this was a bit counter intuitive since they banked off camber, and the car felt a bit unstable, atleast in the 2nd corner as i remember, but the speed would been higher too.. 
Unfortunately I dont have the recordings to review as a full lap, since the camera kept overheating and not turning on again.
So I only had a lot of half laps to look through and evaluate the speeds and the placement of the car. 

Going from slicks to semis in this case i drove the AR1, there is a huge difference in the grip level..
But also my limited track time there is definately a factor too..
Im going there again this summer, so i feel more comfortable now knowing what im going into and also the car is improved a lot since last year.

   

vor 7 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

I‘m sure with your Car you can drive  under 2.50 !! There are some ( 3 ) key positions to get a good time ! 1. eau Rouge exit , the 2 corners before bus stop wich you have to Drive as 1 corner and Full Speed and pouhon wich you have also to Drive as one corner ! These 3 key Positions are Important for a good time . There you loose a lot of seconds when you Drive wrong 

Thanks Boesi! I just reviewed the video i had from last year, which unfortunately was the only lap my camera decide to not overheat on. 
I can definately see the Exit of raidillon is where i lose a lot of speed, going through eau rouge seems to be speedwise fine. 
And also the 2 corner before the old Bus stop corner i found that nailling those two, meant a lot of speed but going slightly off the track into the green part, seems to be very counter intuitive, since it banks off camber. So i try to stay off it.. 

Pouhon i need bigger balls.. And again reviewing my lap there, i see i take it as 2 corners. I will need to investigate into the right line here.. 

You can review the footage i have from last year, mind you there are a lot of traffic though.. 
 

vor 8 Stunden schrieb Kappacino:

You mean 2.45 right? 😀

I have not officially done any timing there yet, but according to some recordings on video i sit around the 3 minut mark and just under 3min on the best laps,  that was also done the first time i was there.
But I plan to make some "official" timing with recording without the overheating camera, when im there next time, so hopefully both weather and on track traffic is fine for doing so.   

Hi Oscar, 

Welome aboard always nice, to see another 1er.. 
Henning and Christian are 2 very knowledgeable guys, that i personally have met multiply times and discussed everything between dirt and sky, they are part of a small group of F2x owners. They also have in common that they are very fast on the track.. 

Looking forward to see your progress with your car, and ofcourse the 997 are also a very interesting project!  

///Lars
 

vor 17 Stunden schrieb Sascha:

From what it looks like it is a transmission sensor, it is cast in and therefore cannot be replaced, which means that - if the sensor is really to blame - the entire transmission has to be replaced . There are no words, especially because there is no delivery date for new gearboxes . You probably don't need to understand how useful such a sensor design is...

 

Compared to the 991.1 GT3, I'm slower on every straight, and I'm later on the brakes at over 200km/h without missing the apex. In the curves there are speed differences of up to 15km/h or more, which is quite remarkable.

 

Hello, 

I wonder if the aftermarket tuners/suppliers would investigate that sensor location, and maybe be able to drill in the casing so the sensor can be replaced.. Seems to be a very odd thing, to have a sensor that is not replaceable.. Everyone who screw or have any idea about mechanical stuff knows, that a sensor is a consumable.. 

Beside that, i can still look a the 3RS with envy! 

vor 7 Stunden schrieb Boesi:

Ich korrigiere, der beste Track den es gibt !!! 
Ich komme gerade nach Hause von wo ?? Natürlich aus spa komme ich !! War Mega heute !! Mit den CR-s 2.46 heute gefahren und das bei 27 grad ! Neuer Rekord für mich ! Der CRS ist einfach ein Hammer geiler Reifen wenn man rausgefunden hat wann man wie den Druck einstellen muss. Der Reifen ist eine komplett neue Liga wenn man vom Cup2 kommt. Ich habe mit den Cup2 so 2.52 gefahren ! Und 6 Sekunden auf 7 km ist eine Welt. Und habe wie letztes meine Track Map gefahren . Ist quasi eine leicht geänderte map vom m4GTS mit max600 nm bei erst 4000upm und dann oben raus von 6000 bis 7400 ups immer um 500 ps aber eben nicht mehr . 

Very nice to hear! 
Yeah the CR-S is definately an improvement.. I drove Padborg Park last monday, i did 2 laps throughout the day, within 0.5secs of my best time, but in some traffic.. Absolutely a good tire, when it first comes into temp range! 2.46 is definately not bad either for the laptime on SPA.. I havent really done any timing there yet, but i will do when i go there next time.. I probably hover around 2.min 55 or so.. 

vor 9 Stunden schrieb Froonki:

Der passt ja, wie angegossen 😉😍🙋‍♂️

Grüße Frank 

Fits like a glove!   

vor einer Stunde schrieb Yellowstang:

You will like spa. It's a great route!

One of the best in my opinion. 

Something has been upgraded again.. Its a neverending theme on our cars it seems.. 

This time i made a more efficient cooling system overall. Now the ZF8 gearbox, is having its own coolier.. On track temps on gearbox are now gone from 133 degrees to 92 degrees.. yes, thats a 41 degree celsius difference.. 

And in the end, it was time to add some asymetrical vinyl to the car.. I rate it, car needs something to offset the boring widebody 
 

Todays only recorded stint together with a passenger.. No chance GT4 or A110R could shake me off their tails 🙈

Am 23.4.2024 um 7:36 AM schrieb FllSnd:

Yes, it really depends on the tire and the compound, you can't say that in general. But no matter what the outside temperature is, in the dry a semi-slick will always work better than a UHP. Of course, things look different in mixed conditions / rain AND low temperatures.

Absolutely, semi slick will always be THE option in dry condition, no matter the temp. You just need to find the right compound/tire model for the temperature you operate in.. Ideally, you would have 3 types of tires, UHP for the wet like ps4/4s cold/warm days, A soft semi like A052 for the colder days or damp surface and Direzza/CR-S for the hot summer days.  That would be my personal 3 tire combo, if i was rich enough  

vor 6 Stunden schrieb FllSnd:

I recently had great grip with the AR-1 when the outside temperature was 5 degrees in the dry, and warming up didn't take much longer than usual. I don't think there's a real temperature limit here, anything above zero should work fine.

So with AR1 being a softer compound, is really good in those temps. 
The CR-S fx, would take a lot of time to get heat into them.. Fx in Easter this year, i needed 2 full stints on Nürb GP to get the tires into a window where they started to be quite good.. Unfortunately, they lost pressure and temps, within 15minutes in the paddoc.. But the core still being warmish they just needed one lap to get into temperature and pressure again.. 

So for me, i have narrowed down, that the AR1 are mega in sub 15 degrees, above that, a different compound would be more optimal, if consistency is what you want.. Ar1, is really an easy tire to live with, if you arent driving longer stints at a time.. 

vor 8 Stunden schrieb Carsten:

@VikingPower

At the moment it is not planned yet and I first have to find a saddler who could do it.
In Celle, as with everything else, a huge problem...
If only next winter anyway.
Now I definitely want to drive the car first.

For sure.. drive drive drive and enjoy the capabillities of the car.. Just saw a fully stock one, with ps4s running sub 7.4x in sub optimal conditions.. So out of the box, the car is very capable.. 

vor 10 Minuten schrieb Carsten:

 

I love it too.
But I also have to honestly say that the interior can be loved and hated.
I think it's great to get in, how the car looks and that I feel like I'm getting into a racing car.
Nevertheless, you have to criticize the super cheap plastic in some places.
I'll have to think about it again and maybe have a saddler go over it with Alcantara.
But that is not yet certain.
Basically, I love the interior too.
I've already replaced the center armrest in the photo and it really makes a difference.

 

Yeah, try tostep into a VW Golf Mk8, im sure you will get ticks from touching anything in there.. Its the worst new spec car, cabin quality wise i ever been in.. That goes for Audi B9 too.. Simply too much hard scratching plastic.. The days of high quality interiors seems to be gone in normal class cars.. The M cars, do retain some refinement.. But hard plastic is my enemy.. Id rather had hard metal.. It still feels quality, and doesnt squeek after some times.. 
Having it polstered with Alcantara, would be a good ide,especially if you dont plan to strip the weight out.. I mena, if want to strip in 3 years time then 3 years with alcantara makes sense.. Even if it cost a few thousand of euros.. Alcantara will emmidiately make it look like a highspec car, which it already is. 

That interior.. Thats nice! 

an hour ago m2arcel wrote:

thanks for the interest, I actually forgot about the thread lol. I will take some pics when I visit the car next week.

Looking forward to that.. I always like to see crazy builds, its like seeing a progress but without spending money myself   I also think the forum needs more of the big builds shown, a lot can be learned from one build to another.. 

@m2arcel
Are you gonna show some pics of the mega project you went through? 

vor 18 Minuten schrieb dawenth:

I have the Noco NLP30 in my M135 with all the comfort-shit working - i just switched to the smallest possible Battery-size via bimmerlink.

That is interesting.. 8ah battery lol :P 
Can you share a pic of how it fits in the space? Definately an interesting option, especially with the low weight.. 

vor 36 Minuten schrieb Phil130i:

All this doesn't really matter as ling as you don't want run all your electrical consumers while the engine is off.

Ah just states the capacity of the battery. Eg. 80A x 1 hour = 80Ah or 40Amps x 2 hours = 80Ah and so on..  When the engine is running the alternator powers all the electrical consumers.

I run a 12,5Ah battery and for me thats enough capacity. I don't have any unnecessary electrical consumers that I use when the engine is off so no worry about he small capacity.

Interesting! I will try to see if i can find out if there are any way to see/calculate how much Amp/Watts starter motor + what diverse electronic modules consumes when you go into the car and wants to start it. I can probably not find anything, but running a 20ah battery is possible would probably be more than i really need. 

58 minutes ago racy_estate wrote:

You need to modify the cars software with ISTA or a different system that allows you to switch the battery size to the smallest one. With this procedure the new battery is recognized correctly. 
Can't tell you if the electronics makes a difference in terms of cell chemistry. There are different statements. But I need to ask: What's the reason that you don't go with a small size AGM battery? Mostly this is a very cost effective method. And I can tell you, that the cranking amps of most 20-30Ah batteries are sufficient for nearly every motor. 

I also have done this, when registered the battery i mounted 1 year ago though not changing the size, since it was the same. 
AGM even at 20amps are just too heavy to make sense for a weight upgrade. Im at the point, where the car could be very close to a sub 1300kg half tank. (1365kg) with just a bit more than half a tank. So the more waight saving the better. Lithiumnext RACE40 weighs 2.6kgs.. But is not IBS optimized. Their Track60 are IBS compatible and weighs 4kg dead. So that is a 18kg weight saving. Allthough in the wrong end of the car, but then i must just remove more in the front 

Powder coating the cage to what ever color you desire, shouldnt be too expensive.. But if you want it pretty invincible black would be fine.. I have one in black, but on my car, im going with black and white details for the yas marina blue color.. So my advice for you would be, find the color scheme you want to use on your black car, then make it throughout the whole build.. In my opinion, that is the most desireble thing to do.. Or just make it batman, black on black.. 
 

This morning the work van battery was  dead. The BMW and the T5 share exactly the same battery.. So naturally im going to replace VW T5 battery with the one from the BMW, and now wants to install a Lithium one in the BMW. 

A few questions to that, 
How low on Ah can i go with the new lithium battery? In a normal BMW m135i they use 80ah AGM battery
. 
As most of you already know, i dont have aircondition, heated seats, Idrive + soundsystem, heater matrix or anything niceness in the car. 
What i do have is Electric windows, 4 amp blower fan for interior cooling, 3 amp raspberry pi.. 

The BMW also have IBS (intelligent Battery Sensor).
As I understand, its not possible to remove this system so i would have to replace with a lithium battery that is made for IBS? 

-3.7 degree camber front 
-2.5 degree camper rear
1mm toe OUT front each corner. 
1.5mm toe in rear each corner works really really well on my car. 
I don't find it too hard on the inside shoulders of the fronts.. Braking performance is really good too.. 

I personally like the fast turn in behavior, and then midcorner, less agressive steering dure to less angle on the outside side.. For trail braking this works really good and you can rotate the car nicely i slow corners, without snapping the rear.. At least, that how i like the setup. With 1.5mm toe in on the rear, i dont find the rear too lazy as it is with 2mm..